Leaving Motala at 7.30am, we very soon entered Lake Vättern, the second largest lake in Sweden. It was vast. We went about 6km southwards and moored in the town of Vadstena, right next to the moated castle.
Our first visit, led by a local guide, was to the 14th century convent church of St. Bridget (Birgitta) and its adjacent buildings. Bridget never lived to see it built. She had quite an interesting life, though. Born in 1303, she married at 16, had some six children and her husband died relatively young. She then decided the contemplative life was for her and wanted to found the convent. She needed the pope's consent so travelled to Rome. Unfortunately, he was in Avignon so she stayed in Rome to wait for him. She waited for twenty years. The pope then gave her the consent she wanted and she conveyed this and the plans for the building of the convent to those she remained in Vadstena. However, Bridget died in Rome in 1373.
In the church were two medieval triptychs, both very intricate.
Returning to the castle, we went in and explored the various rooms. The castle building itself was constructed and added to over several centuries.
We then crossed Lake Vättern, about 20km, to Karlsborg, through a short stretch of narrow canal into another lake (whose name I don't know at the moment). We went north to enter a lock on the canal at Forsvik, where a welcome committee greeted us — a merry band of singers clutching fresh flowers and playing hymns on accordions and brass, a tradition started in 1915 by the late Henry Kindbom. His family continues to bless every ship that passes by.
Rain set in during the evening. The canal was extremely narrow in places. We came to a fork, where the right fork was the original canal, which is no longer used by boats such as ours as the bend is too sharp. We went to the left which is now the main route. However, we were able to see, a little way up the old route, a stone obelisk which marks the highest point on the canal at 91.5m.
We passed by a tiny ferry, for foot passengers only.
We have moored for the night at Hajstorp, immediately above the Thomas Telford lock. He was brought in to advise on the construction of the canal.
Amanda
Another stunning location this morning. The boat
set off at 7.30 and arrived after breakfast at Vadnesta, and moored
right beside the moated medieval castle. I am aware that I am running
out of superlatives trying to describe these places, but they really
are all so lovely and beautifully cared for. The whole of the Göta Canal is of course reliant on its visitors, so I suppose that keeping
everything smart and clean is important. It is all picture perfect.
We first visited the church and monastery of St Birgitta, travelling
through the quiet, Sunday morning town on one of those little tourist
trains (with Geoff running/walking almost alongside - everyone has
got used to him by now!). Once again an hour was simply not enough to
take it all in. Birgitta (1303-1373) was clearly a very feisty,
determined lady and we shall delve more into her life story. She
founded the original order, but of course the buildings have
undergone many changes since then. One of the things which we have
found interesting is the way old buildings have been reconstructed
incorporating as much of the original as has been discovered. The same was true of the castle, which we visited next having returned on
foot via the lakeside walk - and beaten the little train back.
Again, the oldest parts dated back to the thirteenth century. A
number of huge rooms are used for weddings and other celebrations and
must make a lovely setting. There are rooms/halls on three floors -
loads of stone stairs - including on the third floor, added, I think,
in the 16th century, a suite of furnished rooms. The high ceilinged
chapel had wonderful acoustics. There is a Swedish girl rock singer
amongst the passengers. I encouraged, and bravely joined her, to
start singing Amazing Grace (I suggested it just in the hope that it
was a hymn she might know) and six or so other passengers joined in
as we sang the first verse together! It was a lovely, special
moment. We sailed on at midday. This is definitely a place I would
like to revisit. There was a very nice looking, grassy Camperstop
right by the castle which we have made a note of for future
reference. We have noted several already along the canal. Lunch
(delicious as ever, and today the closest we will get to Swedish
meatballs - a meat patty with the traditional accompaniments of
mashed potatoes, creamy gravy and lingonberry sauce) was followed by
yet another peaceful afternoon's cruising through wide and narrow
parts of the canal, across lakes and through locks and swing bridges.
At Forsvik lock we were greeted by the Kindbom family. It had been
explained to us that they are a religious group who have made a
tradition of greeting the boats with music as they come through the
lock since 1926. They do this at least twice a week during the
season. Our tour manager said that, although not everyone would share
their views, she hoped all would respect their sincerity and
goodwill. As we arrived we were greeted with "How great Thou art", accompanied by brass instruments and accordions, followed by
Swedish hymns as we rose in the lock. They presented flowers to our
tour manager, and she in her turn presented them with a gift of
biscuits. We left the lock to .... Amazing Grace. Quite a crowd had
gathered to watch around the locks, and it was very moving. We docked
at Hojstorp at 9.30. We are in the middle of nowhere, moored at the
top of Thomas Telford Lock, built in 1822. TT was an adviser when the
canal was built.
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