Mosjøen - 30 June 2018

Geoff

Although I've been sleeping well every night, last night I seem to have slept particularly well for some reason. 

We had a strange happening after breakfast. Amanda was on the phone arranging her flight back to the UK, and I was doing something or other, when there was a knock at the camper door and there were three young soldiers, armed. I was asked to produce ID. Our layby was close to a military place so it was just a routine check so no problem. The other vans with us were also checked. 

The next town on our route, Fauske, didn't detain us, apart from a loo stop. We then rejoined the E6 and actually stayed on it for the rest of the day as today was very much a driving day. The weather was good as well, warmer than we've been used to and, in fact, we crossed south of the Arctic Circle but didn't stop at the busy visitor centre and rest area. 

For the first part of the day, the road wound along the edge of fjords with steep forested mountainsides to our immediate left. Later on, we climbed to wide open spaces which really dwarfed us and the road. Traffic was very sparse. 

We had heard of the extensive road works on the E6 and came across lots. The entire road seems to be in the process of being upgraded and widened. It is quite windy in places. Progress was slow at times but could have been much worse. The World Cup football perhaps kept a lot of drivers at home and, being a Saturday, there weren't many lorries. 

We stopped to make tea in a parking area overlooking the harbour at Mo i Rana where we saw the Havmannen (Man of the Sea), a sculpture by Antony Gormley. 

We then continued through Mosjøen and then arrived at our stop for the night. It's a small parking area at N65.74319 E013.27779, not intended for overnighting but perfect for it. It has a loo and a few bays but we are parked on the tarmac in a corner. There are a few other vans here. It's very peaceful. 

Amanda

When I went out on deck at 11.45 last night there was hardly anyone out there and the sun was just beginning to force its way through the clouds. It was a lovely sight shimmering on the water. By just before midnight it was shining through brightly, and the deck was full. A moment to be remembered.

We left the ferry at 12.30 and after 30 minutes driving pulled into a lay-by just off the road where three other campers had already settled, and were in bed by ten past 1.

This morning we decided that a concerted effort needed to be made to resolve the travel question, and so, following as much research as I could reasonably do, I booked return flights to Birmingham from Bergen, via Amsterdam, for the week after next, giving us 10 days to get there. There was a slightly surreal moment while I was on the phone in the middle of booking, when an army truck pulled up and three armed army personnel walked over and looked straight in at us. Geoff had his back to them and I had to get his attention to deal with the situation. An inspection of passports, and all was well.

So, in beautiful weather, the day has been spent on the road to get some miles behind us. Fortunately the roads were relatively quiet, the many roadworkings were mostly having a weekend rest, and maybe everyone was watching football. We are heading down the E6, the main toll road, and so missing the slower and more dramatic coastal route, which involves a number of ferries, but the scenery is still very attractive. No dual carriageway this, not even any road markings. We had a few short stops, at the Nordland National Park Turistcentre , which was very touristy, where the lunch buffet looked rather splendid, but we had our lunch in the car park; and at Mo I Rana, to view the Antony Gormley sculpture of a man, standing up to his knees in the water with his back to the town.The harbour with its small marina  looked lovely with the sun shimmering on the water, cloudless blue skies and a good breeze. The combination is guaranteed to lift my spirits.

Geoff has done wonderfully with the driving today, and says his ribs have  been less troublesome. Probably because he has finally consented to take painkillers. A good 4 1/2 - 5  hours of actual driving, combined with the 4 hours on the ferry, means that we have knocked 8 1/2 hours off the travelling time to Bergen in just the last 24 hours. The AA and Satnav both said 25 hours from where we were on Lofoten, which means an average of miles covered in an hour of not more than 36. Our experience suggests that is pretty much spot on.

We have found a very pleasant peaceful lay-by for the night, a lot more attractive, secluded and select than the campsites we have passed. No facilities though. Maybe tomorrow night we will treat ourselves to a proper site, though, after three nights of lay-bys.

Layby on 80 outside Bodø - 29 June 2018

Geoff 

I woke at 2.20am briefly and saw that the sun was up. A little surreal. 

It seems that the blue container behind us and the coming and going with white vans was related to highway works nearby and not anything nefarious. A van had to move to let us out of our overnight parking spot. 

We headed westwards to Leknes but took the minor road which hugs the southern edge. We only met the occasional other vehicle so a good choice. The weather was a bit drab and low cloud obscured the mountain tops. 

We had planned to take the ferry back to the mainland at Bodø probably tomorrow so continued to Moskenes to find out about ferry times and fares. Along the way, we were able to see frequent frame structures from which local fishermen hang cod to dry. It looks very impressive and is very smelly. Having got the ferry information, we drove the short distance to the last place of habitation in the Lofotens with the suitably short name of Å. We took a wander among the traditional red-painted wooden buildings before returning to Moskenes. 

Here, we debated whether to overnight in the car park to then board the 7am ferry but then, impulsively decided to join the swelling lines of vehicles (mainly camper vans) for the next one that left at 8.30pm this evening. We cooked supper and made a brew whilst in the queue. Had we delayed, we wouldn't have got on as only one other vehicle was shoe-horned in immediately behind us. 

The midnight sun, poking through the clouds, was amazing. Driving some miles out of Bodø, at around 1am, we dived into a big layby behind some other camper vans. 

Amanda 

A peaceful night was enjoyed, and, after first backtracking a couple of miles for the usual morning necessity, 

we took the alternative route, branching off the main road to follow the south coast. All very attractive, as I am sure it will continue to be as we head south. Not at its best though, with low cloud and the pinnacles of the mountains hidden in swirls of mist. There is no shortage of spots to stop for breaks with scenic views.

Some forward planning decisions have to be made as I need to get home for a family funeral on the 12 July. This was not unexpected, but needs us to change our plans. We are really  too far away to contemplate driving back in the time, even if we wanted to, so the plan is for me to fly back and return to rejoin Geoff for the remaining four weeks. The question is where to fly from. Bergen is the nearest sensible option, I think. So we will cross back over to the mainland and head south, and see how the driving is on the Norwegian roads, and how far we can get, how fast, before committing. It is sad to say goodbye to the Lofoten Islands after such a short acquaintance, but we are grateful to have had good weather yesterday to enjoy their beauty, and so glad that we sped up through Sweden and got here at all!

A quick stop in Moskenes to check out the ferry, with thoughts of getting one early tomorrow, and then we made for Å, the southernmost village, and a popular tourist destination because of its renowned picturesque appearance. A gathering of copper coloured houses around a little harbour, and loads of seagulls speaking a very different language from those at home! Very attractive. There was an extremely attractive but rather expensive restaurant. Carpaccio of Whale, or fried Cod Tongues anyone?

In the end we decided to go for a ferry this evening, the first one available, rather than spend the evening and night in the car park trying to grab a few hours sleep in order to catch the 7am ferry tomorrow.

So, I am typing this on the ferry from Moskenes, a four hour crossing, which will get us in to Bodo at 12.30 ready to compete with the many  Motorhomes on board for somewhere to stop and spend the rest of the night. On the plus side, we might get to see the midnight sun - if the cloud lifts.

Between Kleppstad and Grundstad, Lofoten - 28 June 2018

Tonight's co-ordinates - 68.26844°N 14.15954°E

Geoff

This morning, we drove back over the bridge to Stokmarknes and followed road 82. Here, I was able to stop and snap a wonderful view of the beautiful bridge we crossed yesterday on the approach to Stokmarknes. 

We followed the road around the south of the island of Hadseløya to the little town of Melbu, where we joined the queue for the ferry to take us to Fiskebøl, a journey time of 45 minutes. It was a delightful ride, with mountains looming ahead and around. It helped that the weather was much improved on yesterday's. We stopped for lunch in a rest area a few minutes away from the ferry, looking out across an inlet with mountains on the other side. When I call these "mountains", I'm not sure that I'm being absolutely correct. They aren't hills and they aren't necessarily what I would normally regard as mountains. What they are is quite high, usually wooded, steep sided mounds that I would say are much bigger than hills. Actually, I've just looked up the definition of mountain and it's "a large natural elevation of the earth's surface rising abruptly from the surrounding level; a large steep hill". Yes, we've got mountains here! 

We made our way to Svolvær where we boughth a few things. Moving on, we stopped in a rest area for a brew and to think about where we might overnight. We keyed in a few sets of co-ordinates into the satnav that we gleaned from our camperstop directory, an app and our trusty Pocket Earth on the iPad. The first we reached was unsuitable as being too close to dwellings but the second proved to be fine. Just two (maybe room for three at a pinch) spaces in a little area dropping down from the road and overlooking a sizeable inlet from the sea. One other van was already here but left after a couple of hours so we are on our own. No facilities but it's free. 

Behind our camper is a large blue goods container. A van came not long after we arrived and the driver took something from the container and drove away. Much later, he came back and, although I wasn't giving it my full attention, there seemed to emerge from the container a couple of men with suitcases who then got into the van and it drove away. Rather odd.

Amanda

Well, the delay was worth it. Not just because we had an interesting day yesterday despite the weather, but because we woke this morning to no rain and the promise of better weather to come.  We also enjoyed free wi-if which eked out our phones' data allowances, and excellent shower and washing opportunities. 

A quick drive on south down the main road brought us to Melbu to await the ferry over from Vesterålen to Lofoten. Geoff used the 30 minute wait well, visiting a local shop in a fruitless search for a replacement for an inexplicably lost Kindle charging lead, but finding instead a non-electric mozzie deterring device (Thermacell) recommended to us back in Sweden, on sale half-price, and then scuttling back as the ferry, Isle of White ferry sized, arrived. The weather was good enough to enjoy the 30 minute crossing out on deck - and well worth enduring numb faces! The approach to the Lofoten Islands is spectacular, the high jagged rocky peaks seeming to rise out of the sea. A promise of views to come for the rest of the day.

In Svolvær, a quick nip into Biltema for said lead was all that detained us, and a stop just before Kabelvag allowed us to walk around the outside of the "Kathedral" the second largest wooden church in Norway, and admire both it and the amazing view across the water. The quality of the light somehow creates the impression that the distant view is a computer graphic generated backdrop to the immediate view. Awe-inspiring.

It was then time to trek on in search of overnight parking. After a couple of detours to spots which proved unsuitable, we have found the one we are now settled in, a small gravelled area into which we dipped down just before one of the bridges which carry the E10. There was one, now two, other Bobils (as they call motorhomes here in Norway) here, and we are tucked pretty much out of sight of the roads. Oh, the second one has gone, and we have our view back in time for Geoff to get back from his walk. And now the first one is going, too!

Vesterålen Kysthotell campsite, Stokmarknes - 27 June 2018

Geoff

The weather was forecast to be dreadful today, lots of rain. Apart from that, Amanda has somehow contracted somewhat dicky insides and felt that a day not going anywhere and with facilities on hand might be a good idea. On enquiring at reception if we could stay another night, we were told that we could BUT seventeen (yes, seventeen) Italian motorhomes were due to arrive later today. We therefore decided not to stay but to make sure we stayed on another place with facilities tonight.

We set off after breakfast in the rain and drove over the now open Tjeldsund bridge to the island of Hinnøya. Following the E10, we drove for miles around the edge of the island, through very pleasant country with occasional villages. The maximum speed allowed was 50mph but the road was quite windy at times and lorries were often met on bends. The rain and low cloud obscured what would otherwise have been great views. Leaving the E10, we continued on the 85 towards Sortland which we reached via a quite spectacular bridge. Another equally magnificent bridge then brought us to Stokmarknes, where we made for the Hurtigruten museum, where we viewed impressive displays illustrating the history of, not only the present day ships which ply from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north, but also the earliest services which served the remote communities and islands along the coast, delivering mail and supplies and also ferry services.

Nearby, we were able to look around the M/S Finnmarken, a ship, built in 1956, that came out of service some years ago and is now out of the water and open to visitors all year round. The museum website says, "Visit this classic ship, with its stately interior ....."; to be honest, I thought the interior was far from stately. We saw the public areas and a lot of cabins and they all seemed rather basic and utilitarian. Anyway, we enjoyed our visit and it helped pass a dull day.

Leaving Stokmarknes, we set the satnav for the site we are now at, adjacent to and belonging to a hotel. It has good facilities and looks out over water with wooded steep hills beyond. It's fine.

We hope the weather improves so we can see the Lofoten Islands at their best. We are presently on the Vesterålen Islands. No photos today as we haven't taken any.

Amanda

We were indeed rocked to sleep. The very pleasing byproduct of a windy night was that we discovered that the main roof light, although fully closed, was loose enough to rise and fall in the wind causing a lot of noise in the blind. Stuffing a tea towel the length of it solved that problem, and also seems to have solved the annoying rattling noise when travelling which we have been trying to track down for 10 years! 

This morning was decision time.The weather was a bit brighter but still drizzly. My digestive system was unhappy - I think a reaction to the tablets I have taken to try and deter mozzies, probably the brewers yeast - and needed a break, and decent facilities!, to allow them to settle down. We have washing that needs doing. And Geoff is hankering after a decent walk, despite the weather. So we contemplated another night at the site - me to chill and Geoff to walk - until the charming receptionist told us that she had 17 Italian Campervans booked in tonight! So, to plan B, and a two hour drive to Stokmarknes in Vesterålen, to visit the Hurtigruten Museum, thus delaying our entry to the Lofoten Islands in the hope of better weather. Despite the rain and mistiness the views along the E10 were still enjoyable, although driving not so much for Geoff. The road clung to the coast with the mountains rising immediately on the other side, and although we seemed to be keeping up a steady speed of 45-50 mph it still took over two hours to cover 50 miles or so. No wonder people say that travelling is slow going here.

We crossed two long and high bridges - the Hurtigruten ships and others go under these so they have to be high - and reached our destination after a lunch stop. As we arrived we could see a Hurtigruten ship approaching. I had read that they stop for the museum, but only for 45 minutes. We had 10 minutes or so almost to ourselves in the museum, which I loved, and then watched a film of the history of the postal shipping the length of the coast, by which time the passengers who had descended had indeed scuttled back to their ship. A shame for them, because the museum deserves longer, but they do get in half price! Included is entry to the ms Finnmarken, retired in the 1980's and unchanged in its interior since then. There is work going on to extend and improve the museum, and to link the ship to it with an internal walkway. We were free to wander all over the ship, into lounges and cabins, and only saw one other couple. Quite a weird experience, but memorable nevertheless.

With a choice of two campsites in the town we plumped for one and it has come up trumps, with use of washing machine and dryers in the kitchen at no extra cost. It is attached to the very smart and comfortable looking Vesterålen Kysthotell Hotel and Conference Centre.

I am typing this sitting in the warm kitchen waiting for the tumble dryer to finish

Tjeldsundbrua Camping, Evenskjer - 26 June 2018

Geoff

I went off for a stroll before breakfast to explore around our camperstop. Just a couple of hundred yards away, I followed a waterside path to a rocky tree covered promontory with views across the lake and back to the camperstop.

We then drove back the few miles to Abisko. The main reason (apart from making use of the loos at the visitor centre!) was for me to "dip my toe" in the Kungsleden trail, a world famous hiking trail that starts/ends at Abisko; the other end is some 270 miles south at Hemavan. I have ambitions of hiking it maybe next year. I walked along the first part of the trail alongside a torrent of a river. It was through woodland so I wasn't able to get out into open country. It was just a taster.

We then hit the road for the Norwegian border. The drive was lovely, the country green and a little barren but with many mountain birch. It became mountainous but then the rain started (and stayed with us for the rest of the day). Around the border it was quite bleak. There were quite large scatterings of what were probably holiday homes and places to rent but we didn't stop. 

The actual border post appeared to be unmanned. We followed the winding road gradually down towards Narvik. The scenery would have been much more impressive had the weather been better. Narvik itself had nothing to detain us so it was bypassed. Instead, we continued on the E10 for the Lofoten Islands. 

Approaching the turn off to the Lofotens, we joined a queue of stationary traffic. In view of the high winds, the bridge to the islands had been closed. We waited for maybe half an hour but, eventually, turned around and drove the short distance to Tjeldsundbrua Camping and booked in for the night which seemed a sensible decision. The lady on reception was very friendly and welcoming and the price was reasonable. It is a very nice site and we are looking out over the wide sea strait towards the Lofotens. So, a day that ended not as planned. 

Amanda

We were very fortunate to have lovely weather yesterday for the scenic drive along the E10. The blue skies had disappeared by evening, but the upside of the coolness is fewer mozzies and no struggle to get air into the camper.

We returned to Abisko for another visit to the Tourist Centre. It is a great place with a lovely exhibition of local nature and culture and a great feelgood factor - bustling with people with backpacks setting off on or just finishing the Kungsleden long distance walk. Geoff, of course, loved it and already has plans to return with backpack. He went off to walk a little way, and then we both walked down to view the magnificent gorge, with water tumbling at high force out of a man made tunnel through the mountainside, blasted in 1899.

Then off on the road to Norway. We got higher as we headed for the border - customs booths etc there but unmanned - and almost as we crossed the border the temperature seemed to drop and the landscape changed, We were now properly up in the mountains, all rock, and the wide straight open roads of Sweden are clearly behind us! I fear driving will not be so relaxing from now on. The roads here are already winding up,down and around the mountainsides. We bypassed Narvik. 

As we approached the suspension bridge which carries the only road across to the islands, we realised something was up. All traffic was at a standstill up ahead, there was no traffic on the bridge, and the only vehicles coming the other way were presumably ones which had turned round. The wind which had been growing in force for a while  was now really strong, rocking the camper (35 kph we later heard), and clearly the suspension bridge was closed to traffic. We would not have wanted to cross it anyway.

We probably waited there in the queue for about an hour, debating and researching, before turning around and dipping down to the seashore to a campsite, where we were warmly welcomed. We chose a pitch in as sheltered a position as possible, near some low buildings, and braved the gale and rain to get the electricity plugged in and the gas on. So we settled in the warm and dry with mugs of tea and excellent free wifi. We have a view up to the bridge, and could see when later the wind dropped and vehicles started to cross a few at a time, in only one direction at a time. In the lull we both made our way to the showers before supper I am pleased to say, because now the rain has started again, and it is blowing a gale. The large number of bikers who descended on the site earlier  - like the mozzies they hunt in packs over here - are nowhere in evidence, so must be hibernating in their little huts. We have spent the evening planning tomorrow to take account of the weather forecast - which is suggesting rain all day. 

We will be rocked to sleep.

Abisko - 25 June 2018

Geoff
I didn't mention yesterday that we left the E45 yesterday at Gällivare and continued north on the E10. In fact, the road signs showed E10 with E45 underneath as the E45 branches off some miles south of Kiruna and proceeds north in the direction of the border with Finland, while the E10 continues north west to Kiruna and then across into Norway and that is where we are heading.

The countryside around was still wooded but in places opened out, where we saw lakes, marshy land and sparsely wooded areas. We are seeing no agricultural land up here and no agricultural livestock. The road has been busier today and, after the weekend, we are seeing many more lorries. Also, the roadworks are now being worked on but never any traffic lights. Even where the road reduces to one lane, drivers are expected to regulate their progress themselves. As the traffic is not so heavy, it seems to work.

Coming into Kiruna, we saw the large spoil heaps ahead of us, the town having come into existence in the early twentieth century as a result of the seams of iron ore that were starting to be mined there. I read that, if there had been no iron ore, then no-one in their right mind would have built a town there. Anyway, before going into the town itself, we drove north a few miles to Kurravaara, a scattered village which in the books and TV series, Arctic Murders, was the home village of the heroine. There is actually very little there save for a jetty and some small boats and a number of houses.

Back then towards Kiruna, we passed by a large construction site and were impressed by a large circular building, behind which was a metallic lattice clock tower. Now, Kiruna is a town that is on the move, quite literally. The continuing iron ore mining is gradually moving underground towards the present town and, if the trajectory continues, subsidence will cause buildings to collapse. Therefore, the town is being moved 3km to the east. The round building we saw is the new town hall and the clock tower has already been moved from its previous location behind the present town hall. The work is scheduled to be completed by 2033. A few buildings, including the large wooden church, are to be dismantled and reconstructed but the rest will be demolished and a new town will arise. Anyway, that's the plan. 

We went in the present town hall to see a display about the new town plan but it was all in Swedish. We then went to look around the church, designed in the form of a traditional Sami dwelling but on a massively larger scale. A lovely building with a separate belfry, both on a hillside overlooking the town.

Leaving Kiruna, we drove up a winding rough road, steep at times, to near the top of Luossavaara, where we parked the camper and then walked the remaining distance to the top of the hill where there were commanding views over Kiruna and the iron ore workings and the surrounding countryside where we could see for many miles, west towards the snow capped mountains of Norway and north over wooded regions of the northernmost reaches of Sweden. At one point near the top, I'd diverted to read a couple of information boards. I looked round for Amanda but she'd disappeared only to be seen again much higher up where she had ascended mountain goat-like.

Descending, we got back on the E10 towards the mountains we could see in the west. It was a lovely drive and much of the way we had the railway alongside, this being the route taken by goods trains taking iron ore from Kiruna to Narvik. At Abisko, we called in at the information centre to ask about a campsite as showers were wanted. We'd read a very bad report of the one nearby so drove on to where we've found a now full camperstop with the sort of loos Amanda prefers not to use but it will have to do. 

So, we have stopped travelling north and are now moving west and will shortly be in Norway although we intend to do a little exploring around here tomorrow. 

I'm having problems with uploading photos so there are none at the moment.

Amanda

Not the most peaceful night. By 11pm, more vehicles had piled in, we lost count of how many. Three refrigerated lorries were parked on the access road, and their generators kicked in at regular intervals, although that wasn't much of a disturbance. The mini invasion of mozzies at 4am was a disturbance however, and it took a while to dispose of them. No idea where they got in.

Just before we reached Kiruna we turned off for a 10 mile detour to check out the village of Kurravaara, home of Rebekah Martinsson, the lawyer-turned-detective main character of the Arctic Murders series. It was much more attractive than I had expected.

Back to Kiruna and again, what a surprise. It is a sort of new town, mainly built in the 1960's, its existence completely dependent on the iron ore mined there, which accounts for 90% of Europe's supply. The equivalent of slag heaps tower over the town, population 17,000, but it is nevertheless attractive and busy. The bad news is that the mining has literally undermined the town and it is in danger of collapsing, so there is a 20 year project to move the whole town several miles to the east. Our first stop was the Stad Hus, the Town Hall, to seek out an exhibition about the project. Unfortunately it was all in Swedish, but it was interesting to be inside the very impressive building and do some research online. Sad to think that it will be no more - the new ultramodern Stad Hus is the first thing to have been built, and we passed it on our way in, standing alone in the middle of a vast building site.

We nearly missed a visit to the church, but it really was a lovely experience. Cathedral sized, but all built of wood, and designed to reflect the shape of Sami churches. It was beautiful. The townspeople have voted that it should be moved in its entirety to its new position.

Having taken what would be the last opportunity to stock up on provisions and fill up with fuel before hitting Norwegian prices we set off again, this time turning off the main road to tease the Camper up the steep gravel road nearly to the top of Luossavaara, a ski slope in winter, and then walked the last bit to the top to be rewarded with stunning views of mountains and lakes in one direction, and the town way below in the other.

50 miles further on, and a brief stop in Abisko, in the Abisko National Park, where all activity is centred around the smart Tourist Information Centre with adjoining hostel and hotel, established that their campsite was for tents only. Having heard bad reviews of the only other campsite available we headed on to a no-facility free Camperstop in a large lay-by  for the night, promising ourselves that when we get to the Lofoten Islands we will indulge in a couple of days relaxation at a campsite with good facilities.

The E10 will take us there tomorrow,

Lappeasuando - 24 June 2018

Geoff
Woke up to a perfect morning, clear blue sky, if a little chilly. After breakfast, we made our way to the Naturum. First, we spent some time outside on the wooden walkways, going right to the edge of the lake with fine mountain views all around.

We then went inside the Naturum and watched a number of short videos (subtitled in English) consisting of pieces by people who live in the region, a reindeer herder, a photographer and others. Fascinating. There is much to see at the Naturum and it was well worth the journey to it.

On our return 56 miles to the E45 Inlandsvägen, we met going the other way just twelve other vehicles, two cyclists, one backpacker and saw one moose at the side of the road and one reindeer trotting along the road in front of us.

We kept on the E45 for the rest of the day, stopping off briefly in Gällivare just to have a look around but it didn't detain us although it looked quite nice on a sunny day. Further on, we drove for about seven miles at 25mph over part of the E45 that was in the process of being resurfaced. At the end of it, if I'd been wearing dentures, I'd have had to adjust them. Quite bone shaking.

We diverted briefly to take a look at Lapland Airport, it having featured in Arctic Murders on TV. It was deserted, presumably no flights today. I should imagine it's quite busy in the winter.

At 5pm, we pulled over into a camperstop at Lappeasuando, which has facilities and is free. Quite a few other vans here. On towards Kiruna tomorrow.

Amanda
The weather forecast was right. We woke to brilliant sunshine and blue skies - and the spectacular views of snow topped mountains all around us. Another motor home came into the car park late last night and left early this morning, otherwise we had the whole car park and the view all to ourselves until the Visitor Centre opened at 10. We had asked permission to stay, and were greeted cheerily by the staff this morning. We first enjoyed the beautiful weather and views a bit longer by walking around the outside - part boardwalk, part mossy peat paths - between the Centre and the lake. Then back into the Centre where we watched several videos of various local people talking about the area and culture - Sami reindeer herders of different ages, ecologists, foodies, artists. Fascinating.

We dragged ourselves away and set off back along the road to the E45. In over 50 miles we passed no more than a dozen cars. A lunch stop back in the same picnic area as yesterday, then, back on the E45, 10 miles of the most dreadful road surface. I have a short video, complete with bumps and the poor camper rattling away, to prove it. It looked as if it had maybe recently been resurfaced, but not done properly. Nothing to suggest that it was a work in progress.
That was slow going, and with no indication of how long it would last, but there was no alternative - no side roads, no anything! Next brief stop was Gallivare, the end of the Inlandsbanan line. Despite a lot of industry, the town centre looked attractive in the sunshine, and the Railway Station was a smart and impressive black painted wooden building. Moving on, we left the E45 after our long acquaintance, and joined the E10 heading for Kiruna, Abisko and the Norwegian border.
Just before we left home we watched Arctic Murders, the Scandi series recently shown on Channel 4 - dark but enjoyable. The stories are set, and we think filmed, in and around Kiruna, and we have been looking forward to trying to identify some of the locations. Thinking we might have found one we followed a sign to "Lapland Airport," which was like a toy airport but with no signs of any planes today. However there is also an airport at Kiruna itself, so maybe that was the wrong one.

We are stopped for the night at a Rastplatz at Lappeasuando, on the E10, an hour's drive short of Kiruna, together with several other Campervans and Motorhomes of various shapes and sizes.

Sent from my iPhone

Stora Sjöfallets Visitor Centre - 23 June 2018

Geoff 

In reading various leaflets we'd acquired, I came across a possibly interesting detour for today. The only drawback was that it was over fifty miles down a road which led to very little else other than our destination, the Stora Sjöfallets Visitor Centre, although the proper name is the Naturum and it is in the Stora Sjöfallets National Park. 

Anyway, we first refuelled in Jokkmokk and continued on the E45, undecided what to do as it would be a long way only to find it was a disappointment. Along the E45, we passed by lakes and dams, part of Sweden's hydroelectric power generation system. Just after going across one dam, I surprised Amanda by braking hard and turning off on to a narrow tarmaced road. It was signposted Harsprånget and I had read about it on the blog of some friends (http://langdale-associates.com/sweden_2013/part_5/index.htm) we met in Sweden in 2016. The blog is a real mine of information. So we parked in what used to be the village centre an took around what was left of it. The village had been built to house workers involved in construction of the dam. About 1,200 people had lived here and there had been shops, a community hall and the village even had it's own football team and a pitch. However, the work on the dam was finished by 1979 although people continued to live in Harsprånget until 1985 when it was abandoned. Wooden houses were loaded on to lorries and taken elsewhere. All that remains is a largely hidden network of streets overtaken by nature and, here and there, a pole with a street name on it. An information board set out some history (in Swedish) and there were some old photographs. 

Returning to the E45, we continued through the small town of Porjus and, shortly after, turned off down the road towards the Stora Sjöfallets National Park. After a lunch stop, we decided to go on to the visitor centre. The road went on sometimes through quite open land and sometimes through forest but with mountains in the distance. 

Eventually, the mountains closed in, we saw snow capped areas and the weather deteriorated. We arrived at the Naturum car park with only a couple of other vehicles there. We made our way on foot through an almost primeval wooded area to the Naturum building, an odd structure made of wood on the outside. 

We had over an hour to spend here but there is much too see so we will return tomorrow. One of the guides, Jenny, gave us an informative description of aspects of Sami life. Her English was very good, having lived in Bristol and Birmingham for five years, only returning home when tuition fees in the UK were sharply increased. 

Amanda

We are rather losing track of the days of the week so, after oversleeping (Geoff clearly needed an unheard of lie-in to help recovery of the bruised ribs!) we were taken aback when downloading the paper to realise that it is Saturday. We were undecided as to where to head for today. Geoff had discovered an interesting looking eco-visitor centre in one of the National Parks north west of the E45, but it meant a drive of some 50 miles down a dead end road and back again along the same road. We set off, still undecided. The views from the  E45  became more dramatic and it took us past several huge dams with associated power stations. Following a sign we drove off the road along a track to the site of what was, in the mid twentieth century, the thriving village community of Harsprangets Samhalle, built for workers at the Harsprangets Power Station. All the buildings were finally demolished in 1985, and all that remain,  in what is now overgrown woodland, is the street signs. A strange place, eerily calm.

Just after Porjus Barjas, an unusually smart and prosperous looking place compared to others we have passed, with its power station and visitor centre, we turned off on the road to the Stora Sjofallets National Park and Visitor Centre, and stopped for lunch in a lovely wooded lakeside lay-by. Fortified, we took a deep breath and crossed our fingers it would be worth it, and set off again along the road, The day had started bright, but it had now clouded over and become blustery. But the scenery became spectacular as we headed towards towering snow capped mountains along the excellent road with no traffic. And yes, it was worth it! A 300 yard walk through the trees from the car park nestled the large wood and glass building, living up to its eco tag in appearance. Inside we were requested to don either the slippers or the shoe covers provided, and we stepped through into a large, super-modern, warm exhibition hall with a stylish wood fire in the middle encircled by a comfy bench, a cafe to one side, and loads of information and exhibits about both Sami Culture and the local ecology. Only a couple of other people were there apart from staff, one of whom, Jenny, asked if we would like her to tell us more about the exhibition. We sat in the cafe chatting to her over Hot Chocolate and berry cake with vanilla sauce, and she then gave us our own personal guided tour of some of the exhibits. She was very knowledgable, having studied social ecology, She had also spent 5 years in England, in Bristol and Birmingham, before returning here to university.

We are staying the night here in the blustery car park, to return to the Centre tomorrow morning, and explore the walkways around it and the lake in what will hopefully be better weather.

Jokkmokk - 22 June 2018

Geoff

We committed mass murder this morning as a lot of mosquitoes found their way into the camper overnight a we picked up some new bites. Still, it was a lovely sunny morning and there was the usual sparse traffic on the E45. 

We had a late morning obligatory stop and photo shoot at the rest area marking the Arctic Circle (Polcirkeln in Swedish).  

Arriving in Jokkmokk a few miles further on, we sought out our planned campsite, Skabram Camping, a couple of miles west of the town. It's a good site, very welcoming, quite small and with all necessary facilities. Having booked in (a good thing as it's midsummer weekend and there were only a couple of spaces left) we drove straight back to Jokkmokk and the Ajtte Museum, devoted to the history of the Sami people. In fact, before we did that, we enjoyed an excellent buffet lunch at the adjoining restaurant, recommended by Lonely Planet. 

Afterwards, looking round the museum shop and outer display I came a bit of a cropper, looking ahead at something and not seeing a step down right in front of me. I lurched forward, twisted and my ribs collided with a wooden handrail. It hurt! Thoroughly winded, I thought I might have cracked a rib or two but a few minutes rest, deep breaths and walking gently reassured me that I was probably just bruised. I think Amanda suspected it was my way of getting her to share the driving. 

After that, we decided not to pay to go in the museum and headed back to the site for a cuppa. I was feeling OK so went off for a superb walk from the site into the adjoining forest and followed waymarked trails for a couple of miles, including a climb up to a viewpoint with far reaching views all around, mainly lakes and more forest. 

Here's a photo Amanda took yesterday of reindeer. 

Amanda

We had a bit of a rude awakening this morning. A large number of mozzies had found their way into the Camper and had been feasting on the exposed bits of flesh they could find - basically fingers and faces. We realised that we had made the mistake of half shutting the roof light blinds against open windows, which meant that only half of each had the mozzie netting, and the other half ordinary blinds with gaps at the edges. A mistake not to be repeated. The next 20 minutes or so was taken up with killing mozzies - the only way is by trapping them between clapped hands - and collecting up the bodies. A veritable massacre!

We breakfasted and got away earlier than usual, and by coffee time were crossing into the Arctic Circle. A lay-by, sign and Cafe/gift shop with expensive tat marks the spot. The view is, as ever, lake and forests into the distance.

A short drive today of just 50 miles or so brought us to Jokkmokk, where we first booked into a pleasant little campsite run by Dutch expats on a small holding. Then back to town to visit the Ajtte Museum about the Sami culture. First stop was the museum restaurant, to indulge in their buffet lunch. Creamy wild mushroom soup with smoked reindeer was followed by salads, then very tasty meatballs with excellent Dauphinoise Potatoes, peas and the typical Swedish gravy, washed down with Lingonberry juice, and followed by coffee and cookies. All that for the equivalent of £8 each. It is crazy that food in the shops seems so expensive, but then a meal like that, in very attractive surroundings, is such good value. We came across this type of bargain buffet lunch in Finland, too.

After some time spent reading up about the Sami history and way of life we returned to base ourselves at the campsite for the afternoon, Geoff to go off for a few hours along one of the several trails starting from the site, me to relax in the Camper and shelter from the light but steady rain which has set in. There  are some muted revelries going on in and outside the kitchen area, but it really doesn't feel like midsummer weather. However it will definitely not get dark at all tonight, but we won't be awake to check, I hope!

Total mileage from home 1650 miles.

Moskosel - 21 June 2018

Geoff

What a lovely spot we found to spend the night. Inevitably some mosquitoes but it's that time of year. 

Back on the E45 Inlandsvägen. It was a bright sunny day but not too warm. We stopped in Storuman for Swedbank's wifi to download the paper and did some food shopping in ICA. Prices can be  bit unpredictable so we were canny about what we bought. We didn't buy an iceberg lettuce for over £3.00 but a sizeable pack of smoked ham slices was very reasonable. 

Our next stop was at Sorsele where we spent some time in the Inlandsbanan Museum, housed next to the railway in the former parcel depot. The history was beautifully set out with text, photos and artefacts. The main drawback for us was that it was all in Swedish but there was a useful leaflet in English. 

We stopped nearby still in Sorsele for lunch overlooking lake Vindeläiven. 

I've been aware whilst driving in Sweden that there is absolutely no litter on the roadsides and around laybys. At home, our roads are a disgrace. 

We saw reindeer today. A couple were ambling along in the middle of the road so we stopped to allow them to take their time. There were more grazing at the roadside. 

The next town on (or rather, just off) was Arvidsjaur. Although I think there are some Sami settlements here, I read that it was otherwise a somewhat drab place so we didn't go in and kept going on the E45. A few miles past Moskosel we came to a parking area just before the bridge over the Piteälven river. Here were loos and water and we thought of overnighting here. However, a sign said it was for short visits only although a caravan was clearly set up for at least an overnight stay. Other vans came and went. I went for a walk over to the other side of the river and found some perfect hideaway spaces next to the river amongst woodland so we took the camper there. The river is a couple of hundred yards wide and very fast flowing. And it's a free pitch!

Amanda

I slept particularly well last night, perhaps because of the soothing sound of the river beside us. The insect life is still a nuisance, and I am glad that it is cool enough to be comfortable in the camper with hatches well and truly battened down both evening, night and morning! I really keep venturing outside in the woods/by water to a minimum, although that means all the most picturesque places!

Just a few miles further along the E45 we stopped at Storuman for Swedbank Internet, loos and shopping, and then set off again settled for the day, and enjoying the sunshine. Next stop, 50 miles later, was Sorsele, and a visit to the station, where there was much to enjoy. It houses a cafe, crafts/nice souvenirs, the Tourist information Centre and the Inlandsbanan Museum. Although everything was in Swedish there was a helpful English leaflet  and some interesting photos, explaining the history of the railway line. It was a surprising fact that thousands of German soldiers travelled through Sweden every week on the railway between 1940 and 1943 - two million in all!

I bought some natural anti mozzie stuff to add to my collection. It is based on Eucalyptus oil and at least it smells nice. They seem to have been immune to deet, vit B, yeast and garlic tablets and mozzie patches. I assume that the anti-histamine tablets are working, and that things would be worse without them. Aloe Vera gel seems to give the best relief. TCP is good, but the smell combined with the deet and everything else is pretty strong and probably repels everything/one except mozzies. 

This is the point where the two daily trains, one going south and one going north, pass each other. Both stop here for refreshments at the cafe, and they overlap by 5 minutes. They were expecting "rush hour" with a total of 87 people any minute, so we timed our visit well!

We lunched back in the town in a car park by the pretty white church (closed) overlooking the lake, before setting off again. The road took us through an area where reindeer were grazing, and we saw quite a few, including a large gathered herd by the roadside, and two who preferred to amble along in the middle of the road in front of us!

Tonight we are in another lovely wooded spot by rapids, a few miles north of Moskosel. Along this side of the river there are several little areas enclosed by trees,  each with room for a couple of motor homes. It is a couple of hundred yards away from the main road, where, on the other side of the river and reached by a footbridge, there is a Rastplats, with a motor home service point ( loos, Chemical disposal and water). All provided free. We have only seen one other like this along the road, but understand that they are more abundant in Norway. 

Storuman - 20 June 2018

Geoff 

Woke up to a blustery, wet morning, quite wintry, in fact, and we are just about at mid summer.

Continuing along the Vildmarksvägen, the road began to climb and it rained on and off. We gained the highest point on the Stekenjokk plateau and a road sign indicated we were entering Lappland. In fact, contrary to what I wrote yesterday, it's only the part of the Vildmarksvägen over the plateau that is closed from October to June. 

I braved the elements to take a few photos. The landscape was quite barren with patches of snow.

We had a longish detour to the Sami church town of Fatmomakke, where we wandered along paths surrounded by Sami huts, cabins and a wooden church. The church was so light and peaceful inside. It is still a living community and is one of Sweden's sixteen preserved church towns. Fatmomakke has been a Sami meeting place since the 1700s. Such an amazing place to visit.

A photo stop was necessary at one point to take in some very wide rapids at Trappstegsforsen. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon meandering along the Vildmarksvägen towards Vilhelmina back on the E45 and thought about where to stop for the night. A couple of possible camperstops weren't up to scratch and we ended up driving further than intended to just a few miles south of Storuman but we have found an idyllic area amongst trees alongside a fast flowing river. There is  one other van here but out of sight. 

At the latitude we are at now, it isn't getting dark at all at night which isn't actually a problem as we have the camper blinds down and it's rather nice to look out at our surroundings when getting up for a call of nature in the early hours. I'm not sure I'd like the long winter nights and dark days, though. 

Amanda

We were very snug last night, despite the pouring rain and wind outside, both of which were still going strong this morning. We have gone from shirt sleeves to four layers of clothing in as many days. We set off at our usual time of about 11 regardless, heading for Stekenjokkplatan, the highest point on the route, and the rain continued intermittently. Now we were properly in the Swedish mountains, above the tree line, and with swathes of snow still by the roadside and on the rough moorland either side of the still excellent wide road.  Along the plateau it was pretty bleak, the icy cold wind and rain adding to the bleakness while we were there, but still stunning enough for the first of many photo opportunities today. 

The next was a bit further along the road where Geoff insisted on stopping to fill a water bottle from a fast running mountain stream. And then drink some. Well he would, wouldn't he, because he could, and it was there, and old habits don't die.

As we descended from the plateau some warmth returned and the top layers of clothes began to come off.

Next stop, a few kilometres off route, was Fatmomakke, a Sami Church Site. A walk, this time in the sunshine, across two bridges and through lakeside trees brought us out in the Church Town. This is a cultural heritage site, and the history is fascinating. The need for such sites arose because of the requirement to attend church a certain number of times a year, and because of their nomadic lifestyle that might entail travelling a long distance, so they would have a cabin in the vicinity of the church to use when visiting. The site was dotted with the same little tepee shaped wooden huts we have seen before. We were able to wander around, up and down stepped paths formed from tree roots, and across boggy patches and streams on wooden plank bridges, and found our way via a circuitous route to the white painted timber church, built in the 19th Century, just in time to shelter from the worst of the rain which had returned.

The church was simple and beautiful inside, all white painted walls and benches, with a lovely wall painting of the Transfiguration which looked quite modern. All very well cared for and obviously regularly in use. There will be big celebrations here on Friday for Midsummer, it being a perfect spot with maypoles in place.

We lunched back in the car park, after a chat to the English couple in an Autosleeper Camper parked beside us, who are heading back south after having first travelled north along the Norwegian Coast.

We then completed the rest of the route to Vilhelmina, to rejoin the E45, taking in a stop to admire the spectacular rapids at Trappstegsforsen, and another for a quick nap followed by a cup of tea and a cinnamon bun.  Back on the E45 we started a hunt for somewhere to stop for the night, and eventually found this very pretty wooded rest area just off the road, with a tumbling river just below us and a picturesque bridge, just after 7pm. It is now just after 9, but it still feels more like mid-afternoon because of the light. But it has been a long, very full, and very enjoyable day.

Ankarvattnets - 19 June 2018

Geoff

A wet morning but it cleared up to give a dry day. On leaving Strömsund we stopped by the outside of the branch of Swedbank and used their free wifi to download the paper to our iPads. Swedbank is generally good for this and requires no sort of registration to go online, unlike the other main bank, Handelsbanken.

We started our journey along the Vildmarksvägen (Wilderness Road) along a very unassuming road out of the town. Strömsund being on the E45, the Vildmarksvägen is a big loop of road going west and then turning north to closely follow the border with Norway and then heading back east to rejoin the E45 at Vilhelmina. We shall cover a total distance of 370km. We don't have to drive this route and it is quite a detour on our journey north but it is worth doing for the scenery and possible wildlife sightings. It is only open to traffic between June and October each year, although presumably locals who live along it can travel freely with the right type of vehicle. Snowmobiles are probably used. 

Much of today has been through more forest but this afternoon we have been driving alongside lakes with far reaching views of mountains, some of which still have patches of snow on the parts that don't get as much sun. 

Roadside rapids

We stopped in Gäddede where there was a small tourist office. In a modern linked building was an excellent display of local wildlife and the life of the Sami, the indigenous people who have lived in the northern part of Sweden for thousands of years. Sami also live in Norway, Finland and a smaller number in Russia. 

We detoured to the Sami village of Ankarede where we saw a number of traditional Sami wooden huts. I don't think they live in these full time as nearby were wooden chalets that were obviously occupied. There was a camperstop here but we couldn't work out the instructions for accessing the facilities so moved on. 

We are overnighting at Ankarvattnets Vildmarkscamping, a site on the shore of lake Ankarvattnet. It is very remote and approached down an unmade road about a mile. There are other vans and some caravans here. The facilities are good and we look out across the lake but the weather has turned quite chilly and it's wet and windy this evening. 

Amanda

It was nice to be on a real campsite. It was nothing out of the ordinary, but a big plus was underfloor heating in the shower block, which encouraged me to have showers last night AND this morning. There was also a pleasant kitchen and seating area. I cooked in the kitchen, but we ate in the Camper.

As we left this morning we watched - discreetly - the activities around a neighbouring motor home , where the couple had apparently locked themselves out. Their efforts combined with those of the roadside assistance they had summoned had not succeeded in breaking in while we were there. I suppose it is some comfort when your motor home is that difficult to break into. 

First stop Swedbank, which still obliges with its easy internet access. It was so fast downloading the papers that I completely forgot to download the Archers and the final of Brain of Britain, so they will have to wait for another day. Then off on the Widerness Route in the sunshine, which enhanced the beautiful views at every turn. Will we ever get tired of forests and lakes?

We stopped at Gaddede, which is a little metropolis about a third of the way along the route from Stromsund before it rejoins the E45 at Vilhelmina, a total of 370 km. The rest of the route so far has had few houses, and sometimes five minutes can go by without seeing another vehicle. But the road is excellent, wide and well maintained, and in some parts very recently resurfaced. 

In Gaddede the door of an unprepossessing low building opened up into a tardis of an Information Centre. In the corner a mock cave like tunnel took us into a magical small but perfect exhibition of the customs and wildlife of the area. It all looked very recent. The grandchildren would have been entranced. The girl on duty was very helpful with tips for the rest of the Route, and reminded us that it is Midsummer Day on Friday - a bigger celebration here than Christmas, she said!  Perhaps more of that later.

Next stop was Ankarede, a "Sami Culture Site". There were lots of the typical Sami little wooden tepee shaped houses, and a church. There was also a Camperstop, but using the facilities required payment via an app, and there was no 3G signal, so we moved on and are at a very pretty lakeside site a few miles on.  This morning's sun has gone, there is a biting wind blowing our way across the lake, and the rain feels icy! Well, we are  less than 200 miles from the Arctic Circle! Oh, and there is snow to be seen on the tops of the mountains! 

We have already boiled water ready for a hot water bottle tonight!

Strömsund - 18 June 2018

Geoff

I gave the Dutch couple in a neighbouring van details of our blog as they are interested in the crossing we did from Sweden to Finland via the Åland Islands in 2016.

We rejoined the E45 Inlandsvägen continuing northwards. It was very quiet. A few cars passed us and quite a lot of camper vans were heading south. Yesterday's rain had cleared the air and it was a fine day. We passed through Hammerdal and then Östersund where ordinarily we would have stopped as it has quite a bit of interest but wanted to get the miles behind us. The roads were mainly forested either side with occasional really long straight. I think the longest straight was about three miles. 

Reaching Strömsund, we decided to call it a day and booked in at a proper campsite with all facilities, including showers and kitchen. Later, we went to explore the small town, what there is of it, which isn't much. A park by the river had a number of restored wooden buildings, some of which were open. One had an amazing array of hand knitted items for sale. 

The site isn't very full at all but this is out of the main season.

I took a walk through the adjacent golf course into some lovely woodland and then follows path by a lake but the humid still air had brought the mosquitoes out and these really plagued me so I cut the walk short. I should have had Amanda with me as the mosquitoes much prefer her, as is evidenced by the number of bites she has, despite having brought every medication and device known to man. 

Tomorrow we start a little adventure, taking a detour off the E45 to go round the Wilderness Road (Vildmarksvägen). 

What we are really noticing is how light it is in the evenings. Even after 11pm it is still quite light and this will continue as we head for the land of the midnight sun. 

Amanda

Bright skies this morning!  The Camperstop was fine, although a dozen or so vans was quite a lot for the single WC to cope with.  We had been bemused and slightly alarmed to read one review of the place by someone who had not stayed, because of the loudspeakers at the nearby mosque. We can only assume that the reviewer had mistaken the warning signal on the railway crossing for a call to prayer!

I requested a proper campsite for tonight, with a view to washing a few clothes and having a shower. We have been wearing the same clothes for a week! We are taking our cue from campervannng/ backpacking friends of Geoff's - you know who you are - who, in their blog of their current travels, mentioned that they only change clothes when they think they are beginning to get a bit niffy. Well, we don't seem to have reached that stage - at least, we don't think so.

Heading on up the E45, with more lovely views of lakes, forests, and the road stretching out into the distance,  we stopped here at Stromsund, and based ourselves at the campsite just before the roadbridge into town. It is the beginning of the "Wilderness Way" a detour off the E45 towards the Norwegian border, which we plan to start tomorrow. It will probably take two or three days.

Lonely Planet is dismissive of the town - " there is nothing here to detain you" = but a stroll around was pleasant enough, and included an outdoor folk museum by the river. Although the buildings were mostly closed - it still being out of season - it clearly has the facilities for fun events through the summer. A small exhibition reminded us that we are now in Sami country, and I daresay we shall learn more of the history and customs of these people in the coming days.

Insect bites are still being accumulated, and nothing affords any lasting relief from the itching and heat of them. I have to confess that I would be enjoying life more without them. Geoff acquired his first major bite , requiring an antihistamine tablet, this afternoon, on  a foray down a wooded lakeside path. He blames me for not being with him as a decoy! 

Svenstavik - 17 June 2018

Geoff

A wet day. It rained most of today. We made a late start around 11am and motored up the E45. It was pleasant enough with very little traffic. I don't know if the fact that it was a Sunday made a difference. I don't think we saw any lorries at all; plenty of motor homes. 

At one point, in an area of cleared forest, I think I caught sight of a solitary reindeer. We stopped in Sveg and spent some time in a Dollar Store, quite an emporium selling almost everything at discount prices. 

We arrived in Svenstavik some time after 3pm and decided to stop here tonight. It's a camperstop in a dedicated tarmac area in the main street with a good ICA supermarket just across the road. There are about a dozen units here with reasonable facilities - electric hookups, a loo, WC emptying but no showers. It's fine for one night. 

Amanda 

The most exciting event of the day was realising that we have clocked up 1000 miles since we left home last Monday! Although making contact with children and grandchildren was good too. Otherwise it was really just a case of driving on up the E45 through the rain which has persisted all day!

When we woke this morning there were armies of midges gathered on the other side of the mozzie blinds. I think they were sheltering from the rain under the half open side roof lights. A few had managed to get in, and the rest were clearly looking for the first opportunity, fortunately they seemed to give up after a while and went off, presumably to bother someone else.

We stopped at Sveg, where the best attraction we could locate was a Dollar Store, so fun was had searching for bargain useful things that wouldn't take up space. We realised that we had forgotten the lesson we learned last trip, to make for a Tourist Information Office to gather info on local places of interest. Because of the change which allows use of phone contract call, text and  data allowances, we have not needed to locate TIOs regularly to download the paper and emails. We had completely forgotten that they have a useful main function! We shall remedy the situation, in order to supplement the info in Wild Scandinavia and Lonely Planet. 

We are parked up for the night in a Camperstop by the station in Svenstavik, and have done our first proper shop in the excellent supermarket across the road. The two Dutch vans which shared our Camperstop last night are here as well. We will probably come across them again and again as they have similar route plans to our own.

It is still raining.

Fågelsjö - 16 June 2018

Geoff

We rejoined the E45 Inlandsvägen road to Mora. Here is the beginning of the Inlandsbanan rail journey, probably the most scenic in Sweden. Over two days, a two carriage diesel train leaves Mora once a day bound for Gällivare, a distance of 1,067km. It stops overnight at Östersund at the end of the first day. The journey is quite slow and the train stops frequently for food at a restaurant or from a stall on a platform, or where interesting wildlife is spotted. It is definitely for the tourists but a wonderful journey. We are not taking the train but our road broadly follows the railway line, often crossing it.

We stopped at a couple of places to see the train go by in different directions. 

We are overnighting at a camperstop not far from the Inlandsbanan at a cluster of farm buildings occupied until 1910 by the descendants of Finnish settlers. They are now owned by the local council and managed by a heritage group. There is a shop and café which we shall investigate tomorrow. 

There is an unmade road going by which goes for some miles. There are weekend cabins and holiday homes dotted about amongst the trees and on the edge of the nearby lake. Lining the road here and there are lupins, presumably self seeded. We have seen them elsewhere as well. 

Most of our travel today has been along forested roads, absolutely lovely, but there will be more in the days to come. There are a lot of trees in Sweden. 

Amanda

Weather

I haven't said anything about the weather yet, but it has been very pleasant. Today has alternated between showers and strong sunshine, hot when the sun is out and warm when it isn't. This evening it feels quite muggy and there is hardly any breeze. Perfect weather for biting insects☹️ I have enough bites already, thank you, despite all my precautions.

So back to the day's report. We started the day with a visit to one of our favourite Swedish haunts ;) a Biltema store, just outside Mora, a great place for useful gadgets. Geoff needed to replace the cheap trowel which broke under the strain of digging up worms for the fishing adventure! From then on we enjoyed tracking the Inlandsbanan train. The railway runs in Summer as a tourist attraction, and the road we are following , the Inlansvagan, weaves backwards and forwards across the railway line all the way from Mora to Gallivare. So it will be our close companion for 1000km. Trains run just once a day in each direction, so we were fortunate to catch one twice, first on the last leg of its journey to Mora, as it passed the lay-by where we had purposely stopped for lunch, and then on its way back north,about 13 kms further along the track, where it stops briefly on a bridge for a view of the Storsgtupet rapids through a gorge. Geoff frightened me to death by perching very close to the railway line in order to get a good photo, and matrimonial harmony was temporarily lost. He has now been forgiven.

Another hour of driving, and we are stopped for the night at a facility for 4 Campervans at Fagelsjo Gammelgard, a farmhouse Museum.

The Wild Guide to Scandinavia is proving extremely useful, as it has a section on the Inlandsbanan. The only problem is that, as its name suggests, it is full of suggestions for recommended spots for wild camping. Geoff, of course wants to check them all out. Since they can be found every 10 km or so, there is a tendency to slow progress. As he himself says, it's like a dog sniffing lampposts.

We have passed two  places where bears are mentioned. We didn't stop there, although I suspect Geoff would have liked to get his tent out!