Saturday 30 June 2018

Layby on 80 outside Bodø - 29 June 2018

Geoff 
I woke at 2.20am briefly and saw that the sun was up. A little surreal. 

It seems that the blue container behind us and the coming and going with white vans was related to highway works nearby and not anything nefarious. A van had to move to let us out of our overnight parking spot. 

We headed westwards to Leknes but took the minor road which hugs the southern edge. We only met the occasional other vehicle so a good choice. The weather was a bit drab and low cloud obscured the mountain tops. 

We had planned to take the ferry back to the mainland at Bodø probably tomorrow so continued to Moskenes to find out about ferry times and fares. Along the way, we were able to see frequent frame structures from which local fishermen hang cod to dry. It looks very impressive and is very smelly. Having got the ferry information, we drove the short distance to the last place of habitation in the Lofotens with the suitably short name of Å. We took a wander among the traditional red-painted wooden buildings before returning to Moskenes. 



Here, we debated whether to overnight in the car park to then board the 7am ferry but then, impulsively decided to join the swelling lines of vehicles (mainly camper vans) for the next one that left at 8.30pm this evening. We cooked supper and made a brew whilst in the queue. Had we delayed, we wouldn't have got on as only one other vehicle was shoe-horned in immediately behind us. 

The midnight sun, poking through the clouds, was amazing. Driving some miles out of Bodø, at around 1am, we dived into a big layby behind some other camper vans. 

Amanda 
A peaceful night was enjoyed, and, after first backtracking a couple of miles for the usual morning necessity, 
we took the alternative route, branching off the main road to follow the south coast. All very attractive, as I am sure it will continue to be as we head south. Not at its best though, with low cloud and the pinnacles of the mountains hidden in swirls of mist. There is no shortage of spots to stop for breaks with scenic views.

Some forward planning decisions have to be made as I need to get home for a family funeral on the 12 July. This was not unexpected, but needs us to change our plans. We are really  too far away to contemplate driving back in the time, even if we wanted to, so the plan is for me to fly back and return to rejoin Geoff for the remaining four weeks. The question is where to fly from. Bergen is the nearest sensible option, I think. So we will cross back over to the mainland and head south, and see how the driving is on the Norwegian roads, and how far we can get, how fast, before committing. It is sad to say goodbye to the Lofoten Islands after such a short acquaintance, but we are grateful to have had good weather yesterday to enjoy their beauty, and so glad that we sped up through Sweden and got here at all!

A quick stop in Moskenes to check out the ferry, with thoughts of getting one early tomorrow, and then we made for Å, the southernmost village, and a popular tourist destination because of its renowned picturesque appearance. A gathering of copper coloured houses around a little harbour, and loads of seagulls speaking a very different language from those at home! Very attractive. There was an extremely attractive but rather expensive restaurant. Carpaccio of Whale, or fried Cod Tongues anyone?

In the end we decided to go for a ferry this evening, the first one available, rather than spend the evening and night in the car park trying to grab a few hours sleep in order to catch the 7am ferry tomorrow.

So, I am typing this on the ferry from Moskenes, a four hour crossing, which will get us in to Bodo at 12.30 ready to compete with the many  Motorhomes on board for somewhere to stop and spend the rest of the night. On the plus side, we might get to see the midnight sun - if the cloud lifts.


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