Jokkmokk - 22 June 2018

Geoff

We committed mass murder this morning as a lot of mosquitoes found their way into the camper overnight a we picked up some new bites. Still, it was a lovely sunny morning and there was the usual sparse traffic on the E45. 

We had a late morning obligatory stop and photo shoot at the rest area marking the Arctic Circle (Polcirkeln in Swedish).  

Arriving in Jokkmokk a few miles further on, we sought out our planned campsite, Skabram Camping, a couple of miles west of the town. It's a good site, very welcoming, quite small and with all necessary facilities. Having booked in (a good thing as it's midsummer weekend and there were only a couple of spaces left) we drove straight back to Jokkmokk and the Ajtte Museum, devoted to the history of the Sami people. In fact, before we did that, we enjoyed an excellent buffet lunch at the adjoining restaurant, recommended by Lonely Planet. 

Afterwards, looking round the museum shop and outer display I came a bit of a cropper, looking ahead at something and not seeing a step down right in front of me. I lurched forward, twisted and my ribs collided with a wooden handrail. It hurt! Thoroughly winded, I thought I might have cracked a rib or two but a few minutes rest, deep breaths and walking gently reassured me that I was probably just bruised. I think Amanda suspected it was my way of getting her to share the driving. 

After that, we decided not to pay to go in the museum and headed back to the site for a cuppa. I was feeling OK so went off for a superb walk from the site into the adjoining forest and followed waymarked trails for a couple of miles, including a climb up to a viewpoint with far reaching views all around, mainly lakes and more forest. 

Here's a photo Amanda took yesterday of reindeer. 

Amanda

We had a bit of a rude awakening this morning. A large number of mozzies had found their way into the Camper and had been feasting on the exposed bits of flesh they could find - basically fingers and faces. We realised that we had made the mistake of half shutting the roof light blinds against open windows, which meant that only half of each had the mozzie netting, and the other half ordinary blinds with gaps at the edges. A mistake not to be repeated. The next 20 minutes or so was taken up with killing mozzies - the only way is by trapping them between clapped hands - and collecting up the bodies. A veritable massacre!

We breakfasted and got away earlier than usual, and by coffee time were crossing into the Arctic Circle. A lay-by, sign and Cafe/gift shop with expensive tat marks the spot. The view is, as ever, lake and forests into the distance.

A short drive today of just 50 miles or so brought us to Jokkmokk, where we first booked into a pleasant little campsite run by Dutch expats on a small holding. Then back to town to visit the Ajtte Museum about the Sami culture. First stop was the museum restaurant, to indulge in their buffet lunch. Creamy wild mushroom soup with smoked reindeer was followed by salads, then very tasty meatballs with excellent Dauphinoise Potatoes, peas and the typical Swedish gravy, washed down with Lingonberry juice, and followed by coffee and cookies. All that for the equivalent of £8 each. It is crazy that food in the shops seems so expensive, but then a meal like that, in very attractive surroundings, is such good value. We came across this type of bargain buffet lunch in Finland, too.

After some time spent reading up about the Sami history and way of life we returned to base ourselves at the campsite for the afternoon, Geoff to go off for a few hours along one of the several trails starting from the site, me to relax in the Camper and shelter from the light but steady rain which has set in. There  are some muted revelries going on in and outside the kitchen area, but it really doesn't feel like midsummer weather. However it will definitely not get dark at all tonight, but we won't be awake to check, I hope!

Total mileage from home 1650 miles.