Geoff
The weather was forecast to be dreadful today, lots of rain. Apart from that, Amanda has somehow contracted somewhat dicky insides and felt that a day not going anywhere and with facilities on hand might be a good idea. On enquiring at reception if we could stay another night, we were told that we could BUT seventeen (yes, seventeen) Italian motorhomes were due to arrive later today. We therefore decided not to stay but to make sure we stayed on another place with facilities tonight.
We set off after breakfast in the rain and drove over the now open Tjeldsund bridge to the island of Hinnøya. Following the E10, we drove for miles around the edge of the island, through very pleasant country with occasional villages. The maximum speed allowed was 50mph but the road was quite windy at times and lorries were often met on bends. The rain and low cloud obscured what would otherwise have been great views. Leaving the E10, we continued on the 85 towards Sortland which we reached via a quite spectacular bridge. Another equally magnificent bridge then brought us to Stokmarknes, where we made for the Hurtigruten museum, where we viewed impressive displays illustrating the history of, not only the present day ships which ply from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes in the far north, but also the earliest services which served the remote communities and islands along the coast, delivering mail and supplies and also ferry services.
Nearby, we were able to look around the M/S Finnmarken, a ship, built in 1956, that came out of service some years ago and is now out of the water and open to visitors all year round. The museum website says, "Visit this classic ship, with its stately interior ....."; to be honest, I thought the interior was far from stately. We saw the public areas and a lot of cabins and they all seemed rather basic and utilitarian. Anyway, we enjoyed our visit and it helped pass a dull day.
Leaving Stokmarknes, we set the satnav for the site we are now at, adjacent to and belonging to a hotel. It has good facilities and looks out over water with wooded steep hills beyond. It's fine.
We hope the weather improves so we can see the Lofoten Islands at their best. We are presently on the Vesterålen Islands. No photos today as we haven't taken any.
Amanda
We were indeed rocked to sleep. The very pleasing byproduct of a windy night was that we discovered that the main roof light, although fully closed, was loose enough to rise and fall in the wind causing a lot of noise in the blind. Stuffing a tea towel the length of it solved that problem, and also seems to have solved the annoying rattling noise when travelling which we have been trying to track down for 10 years!
This morning was decision time.The weather was a bit brighter but still drizzly. My digestive system was unhappy - I think a reaction to the tablets I have taken to try and deter mozzies, probably the brewers yeast - and needed a break, and decent facilities!, to allow them to settle down. We have washing that needs doing. And Geoff is hankering after a decent walk, despite the weather. So we contemplated another night at the site - me to chill and Geoff to walk - until the charming receptionist told us that she had 17 Italian Campervans booked in tonight! So, to plan B, and a two hour drive to Stokmarknes in Vesterålen, to visit the Hurtigruten Museum, thus delaying our entry to the Lofoten Islands in the hope of better weather. Despite the rain and mistiness the views along the E10 were still enjoyable, although driving not so much for Geoff. The road clung to the coast with the mountains rising immediately on the other side, and although we seemed to be keeping up a steady speed of 45-50 mph it still took over two hours to cover 50 miles or so. No wonder people say that travelling is slow going here.
We crossed two long and high bridges - the Hurtigruten ships and others go under these so they have to be high - and reached our destination after a lunch stop. As we arrived we could see a Hurtigruten ship approaching. I had read that they stop for the museum, but only for 45 minutes. We had 10 minutes or so almost to ourselves in the museum, which I loved, and then watched a film of the history of the postal shipping the length of the coast, by which time the passengers who had descended had indeed scuttled back to their ship. A shame for them, because the museum deserves longer, but they do get in half price! Included is entry to the ms Finnmarken, retired in the 1980's and unchanged in its interior since then. There is work going on to extend and improve the museum, and to link the ship to it with an internal walkway. We were free to wander all over the ship, into lounges and cabins, and only saw one other couple. Quite a weird experience, but memorable nevertheless.
With a choice of two campsites in the town we plumped for one and it has come up trumps, with use of washing machine and dryers in the kitchen at no extra cost. It is attached to the very smart and comfortable looking Vesterålen Kysthotell Hotel and Conference Centre.
I am typing this sitting in the warm kitchen waiting for the tumble dryer to finish
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