IJsselstein - 28 July 2018

Geoff

We left Bad Bentheim via the local Lidl, buying mainly wine and beer, at prices much lower than in the UK. 

As we were in the car park, it started to rain, although not nearly as much as might be expected after such a long period of hot weather. 

After a few miles we crossed the border into The Netherlands. We grabbed one of the remaining camper spaces at the camperstop at IJsselstein where we overnighted on our return home in 2016. A lovely location next to a river.

I went off for a welcome walk this afternoon, a circuit of about three miles, the return part being alongside the river. Quite a number of motor launches out and about. We both went for a stroll this evening around a park and woodland. A nice day and a lot cooler than of late. 

Amanda

Shopping in Lidl in Bad Bentheim this morning was a joy. Everything a third of the price it was in Norway, and wine as well. We stocked up on food for the journey tomorrow and quantities of German wine. No cartons this time though! 

Today's planned journey should only have taken a couple of hours, but slow traffic as we approached Utrecht encouraged us to divert cross country and pick the motorway up again south of the city. It was a good move - an enjoyable drive through quiet country roads. We arrived at the Camperstop at the marina at Ijsselstein at about 2.30 and secured one of the two remaining places. We loved it here two years ago - it makes a perfect last night stop, just an hour away from the Hook of Holland. The temperature is a good 10 degrees less than yesterday, and a good breeze means it is really very comfortable. I had a lazy afternoon - well, to be honest I slept - while Geoff went for a walk along the river. After supper we both went for a very pleasant walk, getting back just as it was getting dark, the sky still pink from a lovely sunset. A good day.

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Bad Bentheim - 27 July 2018

Geoff 

Another hot driving day but kept cool inside by air con and a wetted bandana around my neck.

We shopped for a few essentials at a nearby Netto. Here we experienced our disaster of the day.  I put a carton of cheap red wine in the cupboard over the cab. Unfortunately, I failed to realise that the metal strut might collide with said carton when the cupboard was closed. Consequently, I was immediately battling with an influx of red wine over the fabric around the cupboard and the driver's seat and various other places. We did the best we could to soak it up and a proper cleaning job will have to wait until we get home. 

Finding our sliproad on to the A7 closed (why didn't the satnav know?), Amanda navigated us on to it by another route. At least we found somewhere to refuel nearby at €1.24 a litre, compared with €1.51 on the motorway later on. 

It was then just keeping going on the motorway with just a couple of stops. The roadworks around both Hamburg and Bremen were extensive but always moving. So, here we are at the stellplatz at Bad Bentheim. Not many other vans here, compared to our previous visit two years ago. 

There is a Lidl just around the corner where we shall stock up with German wine and beer to take home. 

Amanda

Another driving day, this time right the way across Germany. Our plan to take things slowly and calmly in the heat went rather awry when we discovered just how far a litre of red wine from a carton which burst in the process of being stowed away over the cab could actually spread  over light coloured camper fittings, carpets and upholstery! Oh well, things could only get better, and the rest of the travelling was Ok. Heavy traffic and delays around Hamburg and Bremen, but we were expecting them. 

We are back at the Bad Bentheim site in the castle car park which so impressed us two years ago, with very few others here. We enjoyed a walk in the adjoining park, around a lake, after supper. Research tells me that it is still 27 degrees outside here, at almost midnight. The light breeze which helped a bit has dropped and it is now quite still. We are in no hurry to go to bed!

Tante Henni Stellplatz, Hasloh - 26 July 2018

Geoff 

A very early start, up at 4.45am and away by 5 for the nearby ferry terminal. Vans had overnighted in the private car park next to the terminal entrance and even in the lane leading to the check in. Obviously only doable if arriving late. Our car park for 80NOK was reasonable because we were able to park for the day. 

We'd paid for a buffet breakfast and it was excellent, with extra secreted for lunch. A very calm crossing of about two and a half hours arriving at Hirtshals around 9am.

A hot day, we spent the entire time on the road, having leisurely stops and keeping hydrated. It was a very comfortable journey, taking it easy at a steady 60. Thank goodness for good air conditioning. What also worked well was a wetted bandanna tied around my neck. 

In the afternoon, it was clear that we would want to stop for the night just north of Hamburg. We had no plan to stop for anything in Denmark. Casting around online, I found what seemed our sort of place (rather than a Knaus caravan park at €37!) leaving the A7, we headed for Quickborn and, in the village of Hasloh, we arrived at Tante Henni, a small site with a cafe and top class loos and shower. Very welcoming place and we sat under a sun shade outside the cafe and downed a couple of cold beers. 

The camper is parked in a little shaded area, just perfect. There's some noise from planes going in and out of Hamburg airport but not too intrusive. 

Amanda

All fears unfounded! The world looked rather lovely at 5 o'clock this morning. Boarding was seamless, and we were settled in the comfortable, peaceful and relatively empty buffet restaurant half an hour before departure time. A splendid breakfast buffet, and then "elevenses" of more coffee and pastries at about 8 o'clock and we were well set up for the day. We docked before 9  and were among the first off and away.

The day was then spent travelling down through Denmark and into Germany, more than 300 miles covered, with frequent stops. Thank heavens for air con. It seems that it is now 30 degrees out all across Northern Europe, with temperatures up to 36 degrees forecast for tomorrow.

We were struggling to find somewhere to stop for the night, all available apps and reference books being brought into play. Too many facilities, not enough facilities, very expensive, etc. Then Geoff found this one, the delightfully named Tante-Henni, just off route north of Hamburg. It is a small site,  gorgeous, and ticks all our boxes, and more. The chilled beers at the little terraced bar were very, very welcome., as was the wi-fi, and I was able to change our Hook to Harwich crossing for a day crossing on Sunday. A late cold supper sitting out in our little secluded corner, and a nice chat with Dutch neighbours, and we went to bed with every available window wide open. And completely forgot to write the blogs!

Kristiansand - 25 July 2018

Geoff

Not far to drive today so we didn't leave last night's site till noon. Yet another warm day without rain. It was an easy drive into Kristiansand. We first went to investigate the ferry terminal for tomorrow morning and then went to find a car park for today and overnight. It's at N58.14531 E008.00969 but maybe for not much longer as there's a board up with an artist's impression of an apartment development. 

After lunch, we went to explore the town. There's a beach nearby and lots of people were out, both locals and tourists from a cruise ship. We wandered around the fish market. 

The evening has been spent relaxing in the camper. 

Amanda 

With only a short drive to Kristiansand to do, we knew we could spend an unrushed morning around the campsite. First though I wanted a shower and hair wash, so got myself up at 7.30 to make a dash for it. The three showers were already in use, but I was first in the queue at least.
We left at the designated time of midday. 

First stop in Kristiansand was a reccy of the ferry terminal. No possibility of overnight parking there, but we headed on through the town to the car park where we are now. Parking fees are by the day, so we are paid up to midnight and trust that there is no-one checking between then and 5am. Several other Campers seem to have the same idea.

Plenty of time this afternoon to spend a few hours wandering around the town, which was looking pretty good in the brilliant hot sunshine. Fortunately there was a breeze, and several opportunities to duck out of the heat into coolness - at the Kunsthall, incorporating both the library and an art exhibition, the cathedral, and the indoor fish market. There is also a good sized sandy beach, very busy,  great water fountains which children were having a wonderful time in, a fortress and a couple of parks and green spaces. As well as the ferry terminal, the town has a terminal for cruise ships - at least one was moored here today - and several small marinas scattered around. The whole place was buzzing, but in a nice way.

On our way back to the Camper we stopped to shop for cooked chicken for supper, and a few other things to use up our remaining Norwegian small change. So we will try and get an early night ready for our early start. There is still quite a strong breeze, which doesn't bode well either for the crossing, in a SeaCat, or for the chances of enjoying the breakfast buffet!

Sandnes Camping, Mandal - 24 July 2018

Geoff

Having paid for 24 hours parking in the motorhome parking area in Flekkefjord, we wanted to get the best value out of it so were in no hurry to move on. Besides, we weren't intending to drive far today. Once the rain stopped, we went for a wander around the town. Many of the older buildings were white clapboard and looked very attractive on a sunny day. 

Leaving Flekkefjord on the E39, we had an uneventful drive to Mandal Camping where we booked in for one night. It's a nice site and full. A woodland walk leads from the site to a lake. 

We're there somewhere 

Amanda

Heavy rain this morning, much needed of course. We were able to spend the morning snug in the Camper sitting it out, making the most of our 24 hours, and catching up on the papers. It quickly cleared after lunch, and became quite hot, drying the tarmac out in no time, so we were able to have our planned stroll round the lovely little town. Sadly the interesting white wooden octagonal church had just closed for the day, but it was very enjoyable just wandering through the streets of white painted wooden shops and houses. All very smart and prosperous looking, and very much geared to tourists. In the sunshine we realised that the Camperstop which had just seemed like any old large car park was in fact very attractively positioned between a sheer cliff face and the seashore and little marina, and very convenient indeed for the town.

An hour's drive along the E39, still scenic even though a main road, and we are at Sandnes Camping just outside the little town of Mandal. It is a very attractive smallish site, with wooded rocky hills on three sides, and a rustic, relaxed feel about it - all signs and buildings are wooden. Very nice!

Flekkefjord - 23 July 2018

Geoff

First stop this morning was the ferry for the 45 minutes crossing to Stavanger. From there, we drove to the Fjordline terminal to change our reservation. We had planned to take the overnight ferry to Hirtshals (Denmark) on 5 August but now want to go earlier. The earliest availability on this crossing would be Sunday but we can go on the shorter daytime crossing from Kristiansand on Thursday (6.45am - eek!) so that is what is now decided. We'll now travel around the coast to reach Kristiansand on Wednesday. 

We stopped for lunch near some sand dunes. A lovely sandy beach with rock formations. Amanda had a paddle. 

A short distance away, we went to look at the Domsteinane på Sola, an ancient stone circle, completely restored ten years ago. 

The road hugged the coastline much of the way. We stopped to see the site of the Hårr graves and boat sheds (just adjacent to a layby) from mediaeval times. 

Having thought we'd left the mountainous scenery behind, the road climbed beyond Egersund and we were amongst mountains, rocks and lakes again with a long winding descent the other side. 

We called a halt at Flekkefjord, an attractive town which we shall explore tomorrow as we shall have time in hand with not far to go to reach Kristiansand. We are on a sizeable tarmaced area designated for motor homes, a ridiculous price but convenient. 

Amanda

A day of decisions and putting into action new plans. We crossed to Stavanger on the smart ferry, a 40 minute crossing. We just missed one, and there was a 35 minute wait, but no matter when you have coffee to drink and papers to read. And we were first in the queue. At Stavanger we set the Satnav for the ferry terminal. Having decided to try and change our tickets for the overnight crossing from here in two weeks time and cross over to Denmark earlier than planned, I had had no luck getting through on the phone, so we reckoned that the terminal was our best bet. And so it proved. The large and very smart building was completely deserted - there is only one Fjordline ferry from there per day, a night crossing - and the girl on her own in the ticket office was clearly very pleased to see some people in person, and happy to attend to us while the queue of people waited on the phone line. The upshot was that we are now booked on the short crossing from Kristiansand, a few hours drive down the coast, on Thursday morning with buffet breakfast included, and the clever girl calculated it so that the cost, and the fee for changing the booking - some £70 - were just covered by the amount we had already paid. We hadn't expected to get away with that.

As the Terminal is some distance south of Stavanger, we decided not to venture back into the city, but to set off south down the coast road. Of course, this had not figured in our original plans, but what a joy it has been! The early part was like a Norwegian take on Norfolk. Very flat and agricultural with glorious golden sandy beaches stretching for miles round the bay. There were even some pillboxes. We had our lunch stop by the dunes, then a walk on the beach and a paddle for me. I could have stayed there for hours! Then as we headed south, after a brief stop to investigate a stone circle, there were first rocky beaches, and then, suddenly, as the road curved inland we were in another world. We thought we had left the hair-raising hairpins and sheer drops behind us, but no. I struggle to describe it, so will quote Lonely Planet (read after the event - it was all a complete surprise!) "The road swerves through barren boulder-blotched hills with a few forested sections, lakes and moorlands before descending" through dark tunnels and round hairpins "to breathtaking perpendicular rock scenery."

Through Egersund and on to Flekkefjord, where we are parked in the town's Bobilparkering. The price - what we have paid in proper campsites - is a rip off, for a space in a large car park, with electric, and two loos between countless Bobils. But the bonus is a supermarket close by, and a pizza takeaway. Yes, we have indulged! And tomorrow we should have ample time to stroll into and around the town.

Tau - 22 July 2018

Geoff

Today we followed the Ryfylke scenic route. First stop this morning, only a few miles out of Sauda, was a noted waterfall, Svandalsfossen. Only a couple of other vehicles already there so we stopped. It was a good stepped climb up towards the top of the fall but not that impressive in view of the lack of rain recently. 

Much of today's driving was alongside fjords with rock or forest to our right. Very nice but not as stunning as yesterday's scenery. We crossed Jøsenfjord by the Nesvik to Hjelmeland ferry and gradually the countryside opened out and we left the mountains behind. 

Wanting to reach Stavanger tomorrow, we stopped at Tau, a small town that has grown around a ferry. We are at a camperstop on a marina just a few minutes from the ferry (co-ordinates N59.06144 E005.91011).

Amanda 

A sweet, elderly gentleman out for his constitutional with his wheelie this morning stopped to smile and look at the Camper. He couldn't speak or understand English, but seemed to be asking whether it was really a Bobil because it was so little. There are plenty of VW vans around out here, but not many hi-tops.

Leaving Sauda, and continuing on the Ryfylke which we would follow for the rest of the day, we quickly came upon another notable waterfall, Svandalsfossen, where 500 steps take you up to the top where you are supposed to be able to stand behind the water. I did 200 of them, stopping when the nice regular steps became rocky and uneven. Geoff went to the top, of course, but the lack of rain meant that the fall was not as spectacular as usual.

The rest of the route was very pretty, with more interesting combinations of tunnels and bridges, one ferry, and not a few hairpin bends - this time on a much wider road than yesterday's. Good time was made, and we reached our stop near the ferry for Stavanger at Tau, in time for tea. Good timing it was too, as there were few spaces left at the Camperstop on the marina. Although a few more Bobils have squeezed in since, several have arrived and left again.

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Sauda - 21 July 2018

Geoff

Last night's stop was actually very good (co-ordinates N60.84389 E006.72416). Such stunning surroundings. We drove south west on the E16, heading for Voss. We stopped at the Rema 1000 at Skulestadmoen for wifi. 

From Voss, we took the 13, pleasant enough which improved to run alongside a large lake, Granvinsvatnet. Then a 4.5 tunnel with, towards the end, a roundabout/road junction in the tunnel. We emerged to go over an impressive long suspension bridge. The 13 continued for nearly thirty miles alongside a quite narrow fjord. The road wound its way around rock faces and at times was single track. Along this stretch, Kinsarvik was our stop for lunch next to the fjord. 

South of Odda, we stopped to view the impressive Låtefossen waterfall, in fact a double fall. We managed to park but so many others we there as well. A very popular spot. 

Ten miles past Odda, we joined the E134 and after a longish tunnel and a winding descent, we turned off on to a narrow road, the 520, and this was the exhilarating highlight of the day. It ascended, hugging the mountain side, with a steep drop on Amanda's side, which she wasn't keen on. It continued to climb and wind until we emerged on to a misty, quite eery, landscape, barren and mountainous. It was quite beautiful. 

A long descent brought us unexpectedly past the Allmannajuvet zinc mine, active for only a few years in the late 19th century, but now restored and open to visitors. Unfortunately, time didn't allow more than a brief stop. It was a lovely drive then down into Sauda, a place I'd never heard of but which is home to the largest smelting works in Europe and which dominates the town. 

Apparently, during the winter, the streets are heated so that they remain free of ice and snow. 

We are overnighting at a camperstop overlooking a fjord on the edge of Sauda (co-ordinates N59.64720 E006.34142). 

Amanda

Another one of those days when I look back and can't believe it was only this morning that we left the last overnight stopping place. After a quick stop at a Rema 1000 for shopping and newspaper downloading, we continued on our southwesterly route heading in the general direction of Stavanger. Past Voss we turned south east for a while on the E13, experiencing  our first view of Hardangerfjord, our first roundabouts IN tunnels - two of them - and a massive suspension bridge over the fjord linking two tunnels! Then continuing south on the E13, the pretty fjordside town of Kinsarvik provided a wooded walk past waterfalls, and a waterside lunch spot, as well as an opportunity to chat with a young man from Israel, now living in Prague, who needed a tiny screwdriver to mend his beloved camera. Geoff prides himself on carrying tools for most foreseeable needs, and after much searching was able to find one the right size, which may or may not have done the trick.

Through the large town of Odda without feeling the need to stop, we turned off onto 520, just because it was the way to get to the overnight stop at Sauda which I had identified. Maybe it's a good job that the road atlas doesn't really give away much in the way of clues as to the terrain. This one, which turned out to be part of another Norwegian Scenic Route called Ryfylke, may just be the most interesting and spectacular up-and-over route yet! When I could bear to look, that is. Geoff marvelled that I trusted him - well, I didn't have much choice - and said that he was glad he wasn't in the passenger seat!

We are both now recovering at the quayside Bobil Parking in Sauda, where a local motorist who collects photos of foreign number plates was very excited to capture a GB one. We told him that we had seen a Chinese one earlier today. He said he had seen several, and that they come to Scandinavia via Siberia.

Last night we only needed a sheet, but tonight it will be back to the normal duvet. Much cooler, I'm pleased to say.

Gudvangen - 20 July 2018

Geoff 

Stunning scenery for a while as road 5 took us high above the fjord. After a while, through a two mile tunnel which ended at the ferry which took us from Mannheller to Fodnes, about half an hour. Then a four mile tunnel to the interesting little town of Lærdalsøyri. We stopped here for a while. A Landrover Club meet was in progress with a large campground occupied, as well as a couple of other areas filled with campervans. The main draw of the town, though, is its old wooden houses and church. 

From Lærdalsøyri, to avoid a fifteen mile tunnel (the world's longest), we followed the Aurlandsfjellet, involving a long climb with hairpin bends, a photo stop at some rapids

another stop to simply take in the views and breathe the mountain air

over a rocky plateau with plenty of snow, quite desolate but beautiful, and then a long descent with more hairpins to the village of Aurland. We were behind a car towing a caravan which really shouldn't have been on this road. Several times he had trouble negotiating the narrow road when meeting other vehicles. 

After Flåm, there were three and seven mile tunnels, where we emerged at Gudvangen. At 5.30, we stopped to make tea in a lovely circular layby surrounded by mountains and decided to stop for the night. It was peaceful until a couple of families in convoy with a caravan, trailer tent, kids with bikes and a barking dog arrived and set up. However, it's quietened down now.  

Amanda

Today we completed the circuit around a large part of Sognefjord, starting with another ferry and two tunnels to reach Laerdal. Time to explore the old town on foot. All beautifully maintained wooden houses and shops, painted in soft pastel colours, mostly dating back over a hundred years, with a colonial feel. The town itself is very flat, but there are soaring mountains on all sides.

Moving on, and having no  desire to drive through the world's longest road tunnel, at more than 15 miles, we took the alternative route, the Aurlandsfjellet, over the top. A series of hairpin bends, interspersed with zig-zags and a few blessedly straight stretches, kept taking us higher through lush forested areas with lots of waterfalls, until we reached the rocky, lake filled, landscape of the plateau. Highest point 1300 metres above sea level. Some of the snow still remaining was up to 6 ft deep in places. Spectacular. As we started the long descent we were overtaken by a cyclist who quickly disappeared from view, clearly enjoying the reward for having made it to the top.

As we returned to lush green the views of the fjord opened up, with tiny ships, just like in the brochures! There is a famous viewpoint, but we did not stop. Very crowded! Down and down we went, until we reached Aurland, and then onwards, bypassing Flåm with its huge cruise ships hovering. 

We have stopped for the night in a lovely lay-by, with towering mountains around, and a tumbling stream nearby. There were only two other campervans here when we arrived but, not surprisingly, several others have since joined us. Including, unfortunately, a large family party who have just set up a caravan and a trailer tent immediately behind us, and the children have been cycling round and round the lay-by. Oh well, supper was peaceful!

Kjørnes Camping, Sogndal - 19 July 2018

Geoff

After some debate, we decided we wouldn't take the ferry from Gudvangen to Kaupanger. It is a classic fjord journey, discontinued some years ago as part of the local transport system but brought back just in the summer for tourists. The journey takes about two and a half hours. I'm sure it would have been lovely. Still, that's about £100 saved. 

Instead, we went along the 13 road, a beautifully scenic drive, stopping a couple of times to simply take it all in.  At one point, looking ahead, we could see our road zigzagging up the mountainside ahead. 

Reaching the top, we went through a 1km tunnel and emerged at the highest point with breathtaking views around. Here, we stopped for lunch. The sheep milling around are very bold and literally had to be pushed away from our lunch. 

We then had a slow descent to the town of Vik which we looked down on from far above. 

We went on the quite short ferry from Vangsnes to Hella and followed the 55 road alongside Sognfjord to Sogndal. The sun was blazing down, really warm, and it reminded me of photos I'd seen of the road along the Amalfi coast in Italy but so little traffic. 

After a brief stop in Sogndal, we located Kjørnes Camping, not cheap but such a grand position overlooking the fjord and the facilities are first class. 

Amanda

A lovely last close-up view of the waterfall, serene in between coach parties, (there were 7 when we left) and then a day of scenic fjord driving. A mountain pass with hairpin bends, lunch stop at the top, children playing in the snow, then tunnels, fjordside roads, shimmering water, a ferry, and a campsite for tonight right by the fjord, with everyone sunbathing in the heat. 28 degrees today. It feels and looks like the Mediterranean. Who would have thought we would have weather like this in Norway - although poor Sweden is clearly suffering with wildfires. 

The cold fish cooked last night with potato salad made an ideal supper.

Tvinde Camping, Voss - l8 July 2018

Geoff

We sat through a torrential downpour around breakfast time but it didn't last. We retraced our way back to Indre Arna, stopping for a resupply and wifi at the Rema 1000 at Knarvik on the way. We set the satnav for Voss (Vossevangen on the map) as there is a campsite there. Upon arrival, we could tell immediately that it wasn't our sort of site - jam packed and a large children's area and a swimming pool. The next one was Saue Camping - we went in and they had space but it wasn't really a site for tourers so on we went. The next one, or so we thought, was Taulen Camping, but before we reached it, we came across Tvinde Camping where we were transfixed by an amazing series of tumbling waterfalls from high above - Tvindefossen. It's very well known with coach parties milling around but the adjacent campsite is very nice and so we booked in. 

This evening, I walked a winding uphill route to the top of the waterfall which was worth doing. 

Amanda 

Although it was grey and overcast this morning the view across the water was still lovely, but we had the best of it yesterday evening, when the light on the water was constantly changing through shimmering shades of pink and silver. We even had a rainbow.

We retraced a large part of yesterday's drive before turning off the road to head north east on the E16, leaving the expanses of sea, islands, and bridges, always with layers of hills fading into the distance in the background, behind us, and heading back to the gorges and waterfalls, and tunnels and roads cut into the sheer rough, rocky mountainsides of the more majestic fjords.

We rejected the first two campsites we stopped at, the first in the centre of Voss, and are so glad we did. The spectacular view from where I am sitting couldn't be more different from last night's. The site is laid out around the base of the beautiful , multi-stranded Tvindefossen Waterfall, said to be 152 metres high. The roar of the waterfall drowns out any noise from the main road! It is hard to take your eyes off the mesmerising sight of it.

We dined well tonight on some of the mackerel Geoff was given last night, with the rest of it, and salmon, cooked ready to enjoy cold tomorrow night. My filleting of it in order to pan-fry it wasn't exactly expert, but I was pretty pleased with the result of my first effort.

Gone fishing

Åvika camperstop, Njöti island - 17 July 2018

Geoff

Where to go today? I thought we might head north east towards fjord land but Amanda wanted some sea views. I identified a nice looking camperstop so there we went. Our route took us up the E39 signposted Ålesund (where we were over a week ago) but then went westwards. 

The roads became more minor, then narrower and windier until, finally, a gravel single track road brought us to Åvika. It's on a small island and occupies a large gravelled area overlooking sea and other islands. There are three unoccupied wooden bungalows. There is supposed to be room for 70 campervans but only one other, from Denmark, was to be our only neighbour. 

It's ever so quiet, the only sounds are from oyster catchers, gulls and engines of occasional boats. We met the site owner, a friendly fellow, who came over to say hello. This evening, he and a young lad, pulled up nearby in a small motor boat and called me over to go aboard, which I did. We then picked up the Danish chap and the boat then motored a short distance to where the owner had placed a fishing net. He proceeded to haul the net up and throw some fish into the boat at our feet - salmon, mackerel and sild. I returned to the camper with a couple of gutted mackerel and a fillet of salmon. That's supper sorted for the next two nights!

Amanda

Time to drag ourselves away from the comfortable and familiar surroundings of Bratland Camping. But where to head for first? Geoff found a promising looking 'Bobil Parkering' on one of the little islands, Njöti, to the north west of Bergen. A lovely drive of 50 miles or so took us away from the busyness of the area immediately around Bergen, partly retracing our steps from 10 days ago, and then going west and over bridges linking several what are in fact islands. The roads got narrower and more remote until we reached the end of the road and a large gravelled area with three smart looking little wooden lodges, and one motorhome which had just arrived. There was no-one else around. On closer inspection the lodges were in the process of being done up, and the interiors were definitely works in progress. But within one, which was open, was a table with all the information needed, and a working bathroom for our use. Our neighbours also told us that they had been shown the ropes by a lady who had been there, who had also told them that there had been 40 motorhomes here last weekend.
We have spent a very peaceful afternoon just watching the changing light over the water and the hills/low mountains beyond. I love these less dramatic, softer fjords. A brief thunderstorm cleared the air - it had become quite muggy - and it is now a beautiful evening.

After supper, Geoff had an unexpected adventure when a small boat with an outboard motor, skippered by the chap in charge of this place, who had introduced himself to us earlier, pulled up in front of the camper, and he beckoned Geoff to get in. Geoff, always game for an adventure, got in and was whisked away round the corner and out of sight, leaving me slightly open-mouthed. I suspected that they had also picked up the Danish chap from the neighbouring van, and sure enough, they both returned some 30 minutes later, beaming, with several freshly caught fish, cleaned and gutted and ready to cook! So that's the next two evenings' suppers taken care of!

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Bratland Camping, Bergen - 16 July 2018

Geoff

We decided to go into Bergen today. The no. 90 bus passes right outside the campsite. The cheapest way to buy tickets is to first download the Skyss app and buy tickets just before you travel. They are then valid for use within 90 minutes. The senior fare for within Zone Bergen is 19kr but considerably more if bought from the driver. The bus took us to Nesttun where we switched to Bergen Light Rail, a tram service, to Byparken, the end of the line in the city centre. 

Having arrived, we made for nearby Espresso House, for coffee. A good place. We had no "must sees" to tick off. We made our way to the open air fish market. So many stalls selling fish (mainly all sorts of smoked salmon), lobster, prawns and whale. We sampled wild salmon and whale, both delicious. 

Then we wandered around Bryggen, the old quarter, comprising tall wooden buildings along the quayside.  It was busy with tourists. Cruise ships visit regularly and moor nearby. 

Returning to the fish market, we bought some smoked wild salmon and whale, together with a tube of Kaviar (a cod roe concoction) which is very nice. 

We really enjoyed our evening meal back at the site. Wild salmon, whale, potato salad with lettuce and tomato. Whale is meat, not fish, being a mammal. Not unlike cold roast beef. 

Amanda

As beautiful cities go, Bergen must be right up there with the best - and the weather was amazing to show it off. People have told us that it usually rains a lot here so we are very fortunate.

The bus and then tram ride into Bergen from the campsite was very easy, and a bargain for an interesting hour's journey from country through suburbs to city centre. "Seniors" are over 67 here, so Geoff qualified, as of Friday, for a much reduced fare and as his spouse I was entitled to it too. £1.75 each single!

We had already decided that we would just mooch around, enjoy the two Fish Markets - outdoor and indoor - and Bryggen, the old town, and this we did. We refreshed ourselves with a coffee in a very atmospheric coffee house, before setting off via the main square. The fish markets were, of course fabulous. The buildings on the quay of the old town, just past the markets, are familiar from all the photos, but I had no idea that behind them was a warren of old timber buildings with little alleys between them, now often in use as little shops and suchlike. The only museum we might have been interested in, a small Resistance Museum, was closed today. We returned to the Fish Market on our way back to the tram for some push-the-boat-out  purchases of smoked salmon and whale(!) and Bryggen Caviar - otherwise known as cod's roe - for supper tonight.

And supper has duly been had - very good it was too!

Bratland Camping

Bratland Camping, Bergen - 15 July 2018

Amanda
A perfect day to declare a Home from Home Day. We massively overslept - partly because of the late night catching up with downloaded episodes of The Bridge before they expire, partly because it was just so comfy and cosy! So it was easy to make the decision to have a stay at home day. Washing and drying was easily done in the lovely weather. 

Rarely have we had the opportunity to enjoy being in the Camper with all available windows and doors open, a gentle breeze keeping it lovely and cool. A late brunch of Bacon and Egg Rolls, and an early supper, either side of Wimbledon - listened to rather than watched, sadly, - for me and a walk for Geoff, and Sunday Papers, have left plenty of time this evening to polish off the last two episodes of The Bridge without straying into the early hours. A lovely rest day, which has hopefully energised us for a bus/tram ride and sightseeing in Bergen tomorrow.

Bratland Camping, Bergen - 14 July 2018

Geoff 

How nice to wake up somewhere that is familiar. Osavatnet is such a nice place and not discovered yet by the campervanning community. 

We went for a short walk for Amanda to see for herself the tunnel into the mountainside. It's likely to be to do with regulating the level of the next lake above, Svartavatnet. 

We then did a quick shop at the Kiwi mini market just south of Indre Arna and then Bratland Camping where were for a couple of nights a few days ago. Showers and electricity; a really nice friendly site. 

From here, we can catch a bus into Bergen to explore. 

Amanda
Well, it's good to be back, but I'm so pleased to have been able to get back to the UK for my cousin's funeral, and to catch up with family. Travelling did seem to take a long time yesterday - I set out just before 2pm and got into Bergen Airport just before midnight local time, and in that time only spent 2hrs 20 minutes actually in the air - but it was lovely to wake up this morning in such a peaceful setting surrounded by mountains and with the sound of tumbling water nearby.

A very leisurely start to the day, and a walk so that Geoff could show me this tunnel through the mountainside. I can quite see how astonishing it must have been to come across it unexpectedly, and why it made him think of Bond films with underground caverns where trucks beetle around in operations designed by a villain who is planning to take over the world. However, more mundanely, it appears to be a tunnel designed for access for maintenance purposes to a system carrying water through the mountain between two reservoirs on different levels. So riddle solved, I think.

It was lovely to see the scenery as we wove our way back down the way we had come up in the dark last night to do a shop for supplies and then head for Bratland Camping, where we were at the beginning of the week, in the hope of finding ourselves a space there for a couple of nights. So, here we are again, in a nice little pitch, with time to unwind and plan the next three weeks!

Sent from my iPhone

Osavatnet - 13 July 2018

Geoff

What a change to the weather. Dull and overcast and didn't really change all day. 

I sent most of the morning walking. Up a seemingly endless zigzag of steps up to the dam of the next lake, Svartavatnet. Then followed a lakeside path to some way past the lake till I found a rising path to the left. This brought me over and then down to my return path, so making a circular walk. 

Nothing too strenuous. Not so many people about today, not surprisingly. 

Spent much of the afternoon reading in the camper and drinking tea. Late afternoon, I packed up and drove into Indre Arna and the Rema 1000 where I used their free wifi and did a bit of shopping. Then I called by Bratland Camping and replenished my water supply before heading off to the airport to await Amanda's flight which, unfortunately, was delayed by 35 minutes. I was able to park at the back of a filling station only five minutes walk from the terminal which seems to be the thing to do as you only get seven minutes free at the terminal and then it gets expensive. 

Having located a travel weary Amanda, we could probably have gone back and overnighted at the filling station but I preferred the thirty minute drive back to Osavatnet where we could wake up to beautiful surroundings in a leisurely way and that's what we did. 

By the way, it was my birthday today and a bit of an odd one too. 

Osavatnet, Bergen - 12 July 2018

Geoff

The day started clear and sunny, then mist rolled in but that soon cleared. It's been a lovely warm day. 

With a day to myself, I decided on a walk from the camper. It was during the course of the day that I realised what a gem of a place I found very much by accident. This is a proper car park but quite remote. Many people come and go no further than the nearby river and falls as it is used for swimming and paddling. However, a track leads away and, as I discovered, it is a real gateway into the mountains. 

After about a quarter mile, I came to a junction of paths. Which way to go? I had a small area of map on my phone. I took the path to the right signposted Redningshytten, a mountain hut. It was a clear ascending path and I reached the hut in just under an hour. It was quite a substantial building. I went inside and sat at one of the tables leafing through a book which was for sale. It gave the history of the hut and the people associated with it - all in Norwegian, of course. There was much about a man called Anton Berge and outside was a memorial to him. There was an upper floor with presumably sleeping accommodation. I should think the hut is manned at certain times of the year. Photos in the book showed it in deep snow with skiers outside so it's used all year round. 

From the hut I went further uphill. It was obviously a walking route as there were numbered cairns. At the top, I stopped to chat with a man who was walking from his cottage somewhere to the east to his home in Bergen. He'd been walking for six days. 

Everywhere around me were just stunning views. 

At the same location, I asked directions of a lady with a dog. She'd walked up from my car park but by a different route. That meant I could complete a circular walk. She said just follow the cairns and turn right at number 86! Perfect. After a further mile or so and a steep descent I arrived back at the camper. 

Close by, I came across lady and dog again. I offered her a cup of tea. We chatted for a while and she gave me a number of suggestions for places to see in the Bergen region. We have three weeks left to explore this part of Norway, as well as visiting Bergen itself. 

I've enjoyed a shorter walk this evening. Going by the nearest lake, I found a door and larger double doors let into the mountain side. I always have to try doors to see if they're open. I wasn't expecting this one to be but it was! I had supposed it would be some sort of little storage room but how wrong could I be? I was met with a rush of cold air and a tunnel rising as far as I could see into the mountain. It was lit so I was able to see a long way. There was a ramp that was clearly used to drive up it. I haven't a clue what it was. 

Osavatnet, Bergen - 11 July 2018

Geoff 

I was enjoying a quiet night's sleep in my tent when, around 3am, there was a clatter outside. I looked out (it was still quite light) and saw that my cooking pot with lid on, attached to a Caldera cone, had been neatly upended. I've no idea what did it. 

Yet more good weather. I breakfasted at a stone slab table nearby. Around 9, I retraced my route back to the camper. A lovely walk. I caught sight of a deer some distance away watching my progress. 

I negotiated the mile of hairpin bends back down to the E16 and headed back through tunnels to the Rema 1000 at Indre Arna to download the paper. Looking on Pocket Earth to find somewhere promising for a walk, I set the satnav for a lake, Osavatnet, with another lake beyond. In fact, I couldn't get all the way because what the satnav saw as a road was actually an unmade track not open to vehicles. However, wanting a walk, once I had drunk coffee and read some of the paper, I set off along the track. It was pleasant walking and mainly tree lined for nearly a mile where it then met a road. I then walked about 1.5 miles along the quiet winding road until I reached Osavatnet. It's at the end of a valley, steeply rising forest on one side and grass and bush covered on the other. A car park was maybe one third full with about thirty cars. It looked ideal for an overnight so after a spell sitting on a rock with my feet in the cool water nearby, I set off to walk back to the camper. 

So, back at Osavatnet with the sound of running water. I've had a pleasant evening mainly reading. Nearly all the cars have gone now (it's 10.50pm),  very light, with the late evening sun giving a red tinge to the mountain at the valley end. 

Fitjavatnet - 10 July 2018

Geoff
Leaving the excellent Bratland Camping after two nights there, we drove to Flesland, the airport serving Bergen. I dropped Amanda off for her flight to Birmingham via Amsterdam and went off to do my own thing.

My plan for today was to park the camper and take off with my backpack for a night camping. Using the ut.no website, I had identified a shortish walk with what looked in a photo to be a nice pitch for the night.

On the E16 east of Bergen, I passed through several tunnels and then overshot my turn off so had to go a mile before I was able to turn around. The turn was a narrow single track road which snaked uphill for about a mile with numerous hairpin bends. There were occasional houses and cabins along the way. I'm glad I didn't meet anything coming down. 

When the tarmac ended, I turned and parked the camper out of the way, had lunch and got my pack sorted. My route went uphill on an unmade vehicle track for a few hundred yards before entering a forest on a rising path on a bend. The narrow path was reasonably clear through the trees as it wound its way up out of the forest on to leveller ground with just sparse stunted trees. The path became quite indistinct but I knew more or less the direction to go. Had there been more rain recently it might have been a bit boggy underfoot. 

After about a mile, the path descended a bit and I went in the wrong direction for a short stretch and had to retrace my steps and then found a descending path which brought me to where I am at the head of a tree lined lake with a couple of fishermen's huts. It is so tranquil with just the occasional birdsong. There are snow capped mountains beyond. Nearby, I found a wooden privy hidden amongst the trees. 

My only disturbance has been a runner who passed in front of my tent and around the lake before disappearing from view. 

Bratland Camping, Bergen - 9 July 2018

Geoff 

We didn't have too much planned for today. We intended to check out the drive to Bergen airport for tomorrow but, on the way, decided to visit Troldhaugen, the home of composer, Edvard Grieg. In fact, we spent about four hours there. 

We watched a film that was mainly lovely scenery with Grieg background music. Then we went to see his large wooden hut looking out across the water. A beautiful setting. We sat around for a while before attending a lunchtime concert by a notable local pianist, Einar Steen-Nøkleberg. They put on concerts like this every day. It was in a small hall built into the rocky hillside with superb acoustics. 

We deliberately sat right at the back so as to make a dash for the museum cafeteria. In fact, we were virtually the only ones there for much of the time although others were seated outside. The food, quite a limited range, was nicely done. We had smoked trout and salad wraps, amazingly good cinnamon buns (the best yet) and coffee. 

We followed lunch with a tour of Grieg's house, virtually untouched since his death in 1907, the tomb holding his and his wife's ashes and the museum display. 

A trip the few miles out to the airport and then back to the site for a leisurely rest of day. 

Amanda
It really felt like holiday to wake up knowing that we would be back in the same place tonight, for the first time in four weeks! It has been a lovely day, so much so that halfway through we decided to declare it Geoff's honorary birthday, since I won't be here for his real one on Friday. There were several food-related treats, very enjoyable, if not very good for the waistline. 

First thing, Geoff arrived back at the camper bearing freshly baked baguettes for breakfast, still warm, bought from the little on site shop. What a treat. Last night, in going through the Bergen booklet, I had come across details of the Edvard Grieg Museum at Troldhaugen which looked well worth a visit. Then we discovered that it is less than 20 minutes drive away, on our side of the city, so an obvious choice for today, which started out overcast.

What a great way to while away a few hours, especially when the weather brightened up. It is a really lovely place, with a modern exhibition building also housing a shop and cafe, and an extraordinary 200 seat concert hall built into the hillside in 2007, the centenary of his death. It is said to have the best acoustics in Norway. There is also Grieg's lovely house, with the downstairs rooms as they were in 1907, the hut near the lake where he did his composing, and his burial site. The whole site is elegant and beautifully kept without being sanitised, and feels tranquil despite the coachloads of visitors, who fortunately all seem to be on very tight schedules, so came and went while we took our time. The thirty minute lunchtime piano recital by Einar Steen-Nokleberg, with a view of the composer's hut through the picture window behind the grand piano, was very special.

We followed it with a delicious lunch in the almost empty cafe - smoked trout and egg salad wrap and a Grieg-bun, a sort of cross between a cinnamon bun and a Danish pastry, fresh from the oven, washed down with excellent coffee. We then managed to view the house in between coach parties, having it and a guide, to ourselves, and to go down the winding path through the woods to the lakeside burial site in the rock, with few other people around. 

Altogether a really memorable experience. And then, after a slight detour to check out the route to the airport for tomorrow, back to the campsite for a cup of tea, and a relaxed evening. The camping food supper was never going to live up to the rest of the day, but never mind!

Bratland Camping, Bergen - 8 July 2018

Geoff

Not a lot to say about today. About 60 or so miles driven in sunshine and along quiet Sunday roads. Shops are generally shut on Sundays, it seems. Quite a few tunnels. We made straight for our planned site, Bratland Camping, on the 580 road south of Bergen. It's not far from the airport and we'll stay here for two nights. 

I went for a 3.5km waymarked walk from the site this afternoon. Quite a few ups and downs. A good leg stretch. Signed from the route was a path up to a peak called Ulriken. I hope to have time to explore that as well. 

Amanda

A relaxed start to the day, and then we said farewell to Anders, grateful for his company, all agreeing that we felt much happier when not entirely alone on these Camperstops on the main road. 

We had just 60 easy miles to cover to get to the campsite Geoff had researched, which is 8 miles and 20 minutes drive from the airport, ideally placed for a couple of days rest before my flight. There were several tunnels of varying lengths en route - the scary ones are the ones that go downhill, and the couple this morning which were unlit - and we arrived soon after 1pm. It's a very pleasant campsite, with the added bonuses of free wifi, a little shop and walks straight from the site. It is also on a bus route into Bergen, but visiting the city will wait until the weekend. We were again fortunate to arrive early and find ourselves a nice little corner position. It now seems to be completely full, not surprisingly.

Haugersværlia - 7 July 2018

Geoff 

First task this morning was to empty the loo. There was no facility on our camperstop which was a bit surprising. Anyway, a couple of miles down the road, we entered a village and followed signs to an emptying point. It was on a small site and the owner's charge was 50NOK (about £4.50) which I wasn't willing to pay as, so far, we've either used disposals on sites where we've overnights or used free ones. The owner explained at great length about overheads and cost to him of disposal. I fully understood and told him so. I also told him he was bringing tears to my eyes and played my imaginary violin. We parted on good terms. Anyway, I started the engine and he came running over, saying he saw we were right hand drive and he loves the English, even though he would be supporting Sweden in the World Cup tonight, and we could empty our loo for no charge. We shook hands. 

Today was a day of delightful driving, much of which was beside fjords with forest clad mountain sides all around - typical Norway. We didn't need to cover a great distance. We stopped for a leisurely lunch close to an old stone bridge, the sort I'm sure might be home to a troll or two. 

Arriving in Lavik, we were just in time to board the ferry to Ytre Oppedal, continuing on the E39 and through a couple of longish tunnels until we reached Haugsværlia and our camperstop, next to a small Joker supermarket. It was shut but next to it are loos and a shower, all free to use. 

There is one other occupant. We chatted a lot about all sorts of things. He gave us a copy of his local newspaper from 2010 in which there was a double page spread feature on a round the world cycling trip he undertook. Of course, it's in Norwegian so translation will have to wait. His name is Anders Dale but a brief look online didn't throw up anything. 

I went for a walk down through part of the village. Lovely views across the valley. We are surrounded by mountains. 

Amanda

Beautiful weather today and, at last, feeling no pressure to get on with the journey, we lingered over a leisurely breakfast. Our overnight stop may have just been a rest area, but it was far nicer than a lot of campsites we have seen, with spotless facilities, hot water, and even a couple of tents pitched amongst the lakeside trees. I was almost tempted to have a morning swim. Almost.

A few miles further along the E39, a stop to empty the loo, about which I'm sure Geoff will have more to say, and another at the ever reliable Rema 1000 store for wifi and a bit of food shopping, and it was soon time for a leisurely lunch stop beside a pretty stream with a little stone bridge going across it which must surely have been a hiding place for trolls.

Onwards through endless stunning scenery - the road  almost always follows lakesides before diving through tunnels - and one ferry crossing, from Lavik to Oppendal, and we reached tonight's stopping point soon after 4pm. It is at a little service area with views down into the valley, where a shop, cafe, post office, petrol station and hairdresser all appear to be closed for the weekend. There is a nice outdoor sitting area with picnic benches, loos, hot water, and even a shower. And it is free. One or two cars have stopped briefly. We are now the only ones here  apart from a pick-up with motorbike onboard, with a caravan on tow. It belongs to Anders, who emerged soon after 6 to congratulate us on winning! He is very chatty and has lots to tell about his travels! It is a beautiful evening, and the sun has not yet disappeared behind the mountains at 9.30.

Vassenden E39 - 6 July 2018

Geoff
My walk before breakfast was really good. Nearby was a path which went over the tunnel, then over a rocky downfall, from where a narrow path wound its way through ferns and bushes uphill quite a way. Near the top I came across two old wooden cabins. I was able to nose around the lower one and through an aperture in the door I could see what appeared to be a millstone. Outside was a wooden flume so I think when the water is high it could be used for grinding grain for flour.

Last night another van parked next to us which reassured Amanda that we were less likely to invite unwanted visitors. We actually had a very peaceful night. This morning we chatted to our neighbours who were Norwegian and lived only an hour away. They were driving up to Ålesund to buy a new kitchen. They extolled the virtues of their home town of Loen and surrounding area.

So, we had an unexpected plan for the day. At Loen, we followed signs for the Lodalen valley. The road narrowed after a while and we navigated, with care, a single track road for several miles. A fjord was on our right going out and we saw beautiful waterfalls and the most amazing blue water.

Eventually, we reached a café and lunched in the nearby car park. There are glaciers further up but this would have involved a further 5km drive and probably a walk and time didn't permit, unfortunately. The drive back to Loen was just as exhilarating.

From Loen, we followed the 60 road along the southern edge of a fjord, a lovely route. Leaving the fjord, the road climbed and zigzagged to 600m before dropping gradually to the E39 at Byrkjelo. Just after Skei, we were at a standstill for at least twenty minutes as extensive road construction was in progress and traffic coming the other way was endless. Once we were moving though, driving was slow at times but steady.

We had planned to find a camperstop south of Førde but before then we came across a new parking area with loos (N61.51186 E006.15832) and decided to stop. Other vans are here and we shall have a good night. 

Amanda

I felt much more comfortable staying in the rest area when a Norwegian motorhome joined us sometime after 10 o'clock. I was even grateful that they pulled up quite close to us in the otherwise deserted car park. It felt much safer, even though that was ridiculous really, and we slept really well. We exchanged a few words last night, and chatted much more this morning. We had decided to backtrack and rejoin the old E39 route, ferries and all, rather than brave the tunnels ahead, but our friendly neighbours recommended continuing on our original route, taking in their home town and then diverting for some beautiful scenery. They even gave us a little guide book!

So today was a day of slow but very scenic driving, through Horningdal, Stryn (a stop for the Tourist Information Office) and Loen. We stopped briefly to watch in awe as the cable car ascended vertically up the mountainside for 1011m, and weren't sorry that we didn't have time to spare to spend the £40 each to enjoy the 5 minute ride. From Loen we took the single track road to Bodal along the Lodalen Valley for 16 slow beautiful kms. The lake was an extraordinary colour turquoise. We would have liked to spend more time here. There is plenty of interesting history and, had we carried on along the road, we would have reached famous glaciers. As it was we retraced our steps, and continued along the 60, which took us high up into the mountains via a series of zigzags, with views back down to the fjord, and down again to rejoin the E39. A scenic days driving indeed.

We were aiming to get somewhere beyond Forde tonight, but hit serious roadworks just after Skei which held us up for 30 minutes.  A bit further along the lakeside, still on the E39, we found a very new rest area, in a lovely lakeside setting, with a few Campervans already spread out around it. So here we are for the night. It feels very much more welcoming than last night's. 

E39 south of Volda - 5 July 2018

Geoff 

We had a leisurely start to the day. Parking had been paid for until 4pm and we were in a lovely spot looking across to the island of Valderøya. After breakfast we wandered into town, found the tourist office and downloaded the paper. 

From the centre of the town is a steep path up to Fjellstua, a mountain viewpoint high above. We set off to do it. It starts with some zigzagging paths and then the 418 winding steps take you to the top. 

Amanda stopped for a breather at the foot of the steps and I went on. Part way up is a viewing platform and, at the top, is a cafeteria and a large outside viewing area. The views over the town and sea and islands beyond were amazing. 

I was on my way back down when I met Amanda coming up. Obviously, only a short breather was needed. She did very well. In fact, she said going down was harder. 

We left Ålesund mid afternoon with not too far to drive. We found a stop for the night just past the second tunnel on the Bergen side of Volda. There are great views over a fjord but there isn't much traffic on the road behind and we are on our own tonight, no other vans. 

Amanda

We decided to take full advantage of the 24 hrs parking, with a lie in, late breakfast, and lovely long chat to a young British couple, Sarah and Dave, from Cheshire, who are campervanning around Europe on a year's sabbatical in a camper the same size as ours. Like us two years ago, they have run out of gas two and a half weeks in and had to buy a camping stove. We duly inspected and admired each other's vans before parting company, each to head off in the direction the other had just come from.

The prospect of a climb up 418 steps to a viewpoint above the town was an enticing one for Geoff and a daunting one for me. But I made it, and the view was worth it. Alesund is really a very attractive place.  It left time for coffee, a shower and lunch before leaving at around 3pm. 

No need to do many miles today, (less than 50, including a ferry, several tunnels and fjordside roads). We are parked in a nicely laid out, railed, rest area above a fjord which one of our guides to overnight parking places lists, and have cooked and eaten supper. We are the only ones here, and few vehicles have stopped. Maybe because this is a new re-routing of the E39, through several tunnels, and is not even shown as projected in our 2 year old road atlas. Maybe because it is not easily seen as you emerge from the nearby tunnel. The views are beautiful, though shrouded in mist now, and it is all a bit eerie!