Gröna Uddens Camping, Mariehamn - Saturday, 10 September

Geoff

Another short driving day today, it was about 13km from Godby to Mariehamn. Pocket Earth showed the tourist office in the wrong place. We passed a rather large one in Storagatan, but it was closed (we've found that tourist offices and libraries often close at weekends) and when we arrived at where the satnav thought there ŵas a tourist office, there wasn't. Anyway, we were at a large ferry terminal at that point and a helpful security lady rang the tourist office and established that, indeed, it wasn't open today. She was nonplussed as well.

We had a brief wander around along the quayside, establishing where one of Mariehamn's main attractions, the Sjöfartsmuseum is as a possibility for tomorrow. We fell into conversation with a German cyclist who was bemoaning the fact that his Visa card was causing problems and, as a result, he was having difficulty booking a ferry to Stockholm and was miffed that so much seemed to be closed at weekends. He wasn't having a good day. Anyway, we said we were wondering where we would be spending the night with the camper as the only campsite in Mariehamn was closed. He said it was open as he'd been there last night. Things were looking up.

We first went to take a look at a camperstop on Österleden by a marina that I'd found online. It turned out to be just a row of ordinary parking spaces overlooking the water, with a loo disposal but nothing more. It would do for one night maybe. We then went on to Gröna Uddens Camping, which was very open. The proprietor said that he wasn't advertising the fact that the site was open as the cafeteria/restaurant on site wasn't open and he didn't want people to be disappointed! Because of this, the charge per night would be €25 instead of €35. We said we'd be back tomorrow.

We then went to investigate Pub Niska, owned by Michael Björklund (see yesterday's entry) in the Sjökvarteret area on Österleden. This was a rough wooden building, apparently built around part of a ship, a courtyard with wooden packing cases as tables and bench seats, all very rustic and looking out across the inlet. A masted schooner was only feet away. Most of the menu comprised plåtbröd (Åland-style pizza) with some very appetising toppings. We both had smoked trout, horseradish sauce and rocket and it was possible the best pizza ever.

We wandered around among the other buildings. A large craft shop (which had closed while we were having lunch), a jeweller's, a maritime museum and a reconstructed seafarer's chapel which we visited, right on the end of a jetty.

Back to the campsite where we found an excellent pitch only feet away from the beach. There are very few people here. I was persuaded to book us in for two nights here, it is such a lovely place. I took a walk into the town this afternoon, an easy walk along a gravel path. In a park area are some large cages housing rabbits of various kinds and poultry (although a considerable number of jackdaws had found their way in); there were also some peacocks strutting around.

The part of Mariehamn I saw is modern and pleasant enough but nothing of great interest. Our German friend from this morning has returned to the site for another night, having now booked his ferry. He is much happier now.

Amanda

Well, what Geoff would call serendipity, coupled with a willingness to go with the flow and not be in a rush, has been on our side again today, and we are nicely settled for the next couple of nights.

But to begin at the beginning. We drove south to Mariehamn, the capital of Åland, this morning with no idea of where we might be able to spend the night. Fabulous weather again, so of course everything looks great, but it is a very attractive town. Wide tree lined streets and low wooden buildings painted in pastel colours. 40% of the population of Åland lives here, but it is still really only a medium sized town. The satnav told us that the Tourist Information Office was at the ferry terminal. On the way we passed what looked very much like it, but it was clearly closed, so we pressed on to the terminal. This is pretty big, as is the terminal building, and caters for three different ferry companies heading out in several directions. However, with no ferries scheduled for another two hours, the place, although open, was almost deserted. And, as expected, no TIO. A sole lady security guard kindly phoned the TIO and confirmed that they were indeed closed.

We walked along the esplanade and back, and then sat outside the terminal to do some more internet research. Along came a German cyclist. He was very grumpy indeed. Everything, it seemed was going wrong. Everything was closed. He couldn't believe this place was so uncivilised. He had had enough. While Geoff continued to beaver away on the internet, and kept his head down, I listened sympathetically and made polite conversation. Patience was rewarded when we said that even the campsite here in Mariehamn was closed, and he said it wasn't because he had stayed there last night!

We drove to the site, where we found the owner in reception. The reason the website says it is closed, he told us, is because he doesn't want people to come and be disappointed because the cafe and some other facilities are not available! It is a lovely site, and there are a handful of motorhomes scattered amongst the trees. We are situated right on the edge of the sandy beach, with an uninterrupted view across the bay.

We lunched back in town, sitting outside at the harbourside Pub Nisko, the brainchild of the same chef who set up Smakbyn, which we visited yesterday. The place is extraordinary, with tables and benches made from old packing cases, and the whole resembling an old ship. The smoked trout and horseradish cream flatbread (Åland's answer to pizza) was out of this world. Nearby, at the end of a little causeway, was a tiny Fisherman's Chapel, lovely inside and out.

Back at the site, and booked for two nights, we sat outside enjoying the view and reading for the rest of the afternoon. Geoff went off for a walk, and our grumpy German cyclist from this morning came by and hailed me. Christofer was now no longer grumpy. He had sorted out his ferry for tomorrow morning and lunched at Pub Nisko himself. He was still sitting here chatting half an hour later when Geoff returned.

So we have the prospect of a relaxed Sunday here, with a pleasant stroll into town along the wooded waterside path on offer.

We are still pondering the choice of ferry to Turku. At least I am.

Option 1 is the direct ferry, Mariehamn to Turku, on a full size ferry, Viking or Silja Lines. It takes about 5 hours, I think. It winds its way through the islands, and a cabin for snoozing in would be a possibility.

Option 2 is the more adventurous one, island hopping by small ferry across first the Åland Archipelago, and then the Turku Archipelago. Trying to find out about this route has been rather like doing a jigsaw puzzle. Starting in Långnäs on the wonderfully named island of Lumparland, it would be spread over three days, with about 3 hours each day taken up with ferries. One night would have to be spent on one of the intermediate Åland Islands as a condition of using the ferry route, because it is primarily meant for the use of the islanders. A second night would be spent on Galtby, on the furthest of the Åland Islands, because the ferry doesn't arrive there until 9 pm. The route from there to Turku, by ferries and bridges, is still a bit of an unknown quantity.

On his website, Paul gives some insight into this route. He describes racing across islands to catch the

next ferry, in a little convoy of vehicles on the same mission, trying not to break the speed limit in the process. Our German cyclist yesterday confirmed this, saying that the timetables were such that you couldn't do the route on a bike, because there was not sufficient time to get from one ferry to the next.

There is little difference in the cost, as far as we can tell. If anything option 2 is a bit more expensive.

Those we have spoken to say that island hopping is a lovely way to do the crossing. I must say that it sounds potentially stressful to me, and we have forgotten how to do stressful! We have at least another day to make a decision.