Turku waterfront - Thursday, 15 September

Geoff
We had a leisurely start to the day. A bit cooler than previous mornings. On looking at our surroundings in daylight, we saw how lucky we were to have chanced on this place last night. For anyone wanting to find it, the GPS co-ordinates are 60.18130°N 21.63705°E, taking a turning to the left just before reaching the bridge and following the roadway that drops down parallel to the bridge.

We went to see what lay the other side of the bridge. It is an island called Wattkast, largely forested with just one road going through it and ending at a holiday complex of log cabins near a lake. On the way back over the island, we stopped at a large greenhouse-like building used for growing tomatoes and other salad vegetables (yes, I know the tomato is a fruit). We bought two types and a cucumber at their serve yourself, enter the amounts and prices in a book and put the right amount in a tin. It was refreshing to know that we would be trusted to do this and everyone else would do the same. We found a similar mentality in Sweden as well.

We then headed towards Turku, a recent European City of Culture, of which I had never heard before we started planning this trip. On arrival, we headed for tourist information for wifi and details of what to see here. We liked what we saw of the city centre, based around the river which flows through the middle. We went in search of the Sibelius Museum (www.sibeliusmuseum.abo.fi) which happens to be very close to the cathedral, dating back to the 1300s. We both had a look round this and were impressed by its Lutheran plainness. I went to the Sibelius Museum on my own. In fact, I was the only visitor there. I was expecting to learn much about the composer and his life but was disappointed. The museum, under a different name, was originally established in 1926 by Otto Andersson as a repository for musical instruments, sheet music, letters and pictures. Over the years, manuscripts and much Sibelius material was gifted to the museum. I spent my time looking at the many musical instruments covering much of the main part of the museum and its ground floor but, for the life of me, I couldn't find anything specifically relating to the man himself, and his life, which was my main interest. Unfortunately, when I wanted to ask about this, the girl on reception was nowhere to be found. A bit of a disappointment in retrospect.

We then went to locate motorhome parking on the waterfront. There are no facilities but the location is good at GPS 60.44197°N 22.24823°E. There is a loo about 200m along the waterfront towards the road bridge. We went for a walk towards the castle and maritime museum (with a number of historic vessels of different kinds moored nearby). There is also a large "sculpture" of a daisy and long green stem.

Close to where we are parked is the Esposito, a bar on an old ship which also does food. We sat on the deck on wooden benches and table and ate fish and chips. Not the best I've ever had but quite edible. We have spent the evening just watching the world and many of the city's inhabitants go by on bicycles, motor bikes, roller blades or just walking and jogging. It looked as if it might get rowdy earlier when a noisy crowd came across the river on the pedestrian ferry but they got on to some coaches that were waiting for them. They will have come from the city's football ground which is quite close.

There are museums here worth visiting but we feel "museumed-out" at the moment.

Amanda

Well, it was an excellent spot to spend the night, although Geoff says he thinks he heard a moose snuffling around at one point!!

The last eleven days in Åland have been amazing. It's strange to think that until a few weeks ago we had not even heard of the Åland Archipelago, let alone planned to visit it. Our intention had been to take the overnight ferry from Stockholm to Turku; we would have missed so much!

So we are now in the Turku Archipelago. First we crossed the bridge to have a look at the island on the other side. A long road ran across it with very little to see - except a large tomato growing concern which we passed going one way and stopped at on the way back. There were great boxes of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, and a serve-yourself shop. We helped ourselves, filling bags with tomatoes and baby plum tomatoes, and a cucumber. There were scales and a calculator provided, with a book to enter what we had bought, and a large cash tin full of plenty of change!

We then drove the 75km to Turku crossing a number of islands - I lost count - linked mostly by bridges, but with two ferries needed. The first was just a quick hop, but the second covered a mile. Both were in position for us to board immediately. We were very fortunate. Still free!

We set the satnav for the Tourist Information Office, right in the centre of Turku, (the second city of Finland, and once its capital under Swedish rule) and paid for an hour's parking just outside. This gave us time to do all the necessary internet stuff, gather info and maps, have a quick wander to look along the riverside "strand", and have a sandwich lunch in the camper. Geoff fancied the Sibelius Museum, not too far away. The satnav took us to parking right outside the cathedral and next to a park. I was happy to stay there while Geoff did the museum, checking up on possibilities for the next few days, and spending some time in the cathedral. When Geoff got back we both did a proper visit of the cathedral, the mother church of the Lutheran Church of Finland.

Next we needed to check out a possible overnight stop along the riverside strand which joins the city centre and the castle. And the ferry port. We decided to stay here, rather than head on out of the city, although we have done all we want to here. We tend to get a bit grumpy in cities, although we know we should be more appreciative, and it has been particularly difficult to adapt to city pace after the unrushed peacefulness of Åland. But I felt Geoff had done enough driving, both on country roads and through city traffic, and all nearby campsites were closed.

After a reviving cup of tea and slice of cake, we went for an early evening stroll along the river towards the castle. It is all very pleasant, but really could be any city waterside development. The large Maritime Museum included several interesting ships moored along the river. We could just see the castle peering over the trees and buildings, but are not concerned to visit, both feeling quite castled out at the moment. I suspect that the best view of it is on the sea approach. But we enjoyed the walk there and back, remarking on several modern sculptures.

Just near where we are parked is a little open air boat bar and cafe offering, amongst other things, fish and chips. We decided to go for it, and it hit the spot. First chips since we left home!

I don't expect it will be an entirely peaceful night, and the earplugs may be needed, but it does add yet more variety to the range of places we have found ourselves sleeping in. Imagine being able to stay in London free overnight in a campervan parked on the Embankment!