Friday 23 September 2016

Huhtiniemi Tourist Resort, Lappeenranta - Thursday, 22 September

Geoff
Leaving the campsite, we went for a meandering drive towards the Russian border. It was a gravelled road, no other traffic and just the odd farm house. We stopped by a sign headed "STOP" and, in several languages, "Border Zone - No entry without special permit". Across the road was a wooden tower which I climbed but there was nothing to see except trees towards the border. At one point, we were only 100 metres away but still only trees. We drove up to the main road leading to the border crossing. Here, there were a couple of shops. One was a discount store, clearly catering for Russians who presumably couldn't buy the goods at all or at the prices. It was rather a shabby place. We went in and our way was almost barred by stacks of vehicle tyres. Also, coffee is probably in short supply in Russia, judging by the range and quantity.

There were a couple of shops selling nothing but fish and caviar. I went in one out of curiosity. There were large whole fish (species unknown) and salmon vacuum packed.

The rest of the day was spent immersed in Finland's experiences during the Winter and Continuation Wars of 1939-1944. We went first to the Bunker Museum. I knew that it had closed for the year at the end of August but as I thought much of it was outdoors, it was probably worth taking a look. We weren't disappointed. The main building and ticket office were closed but we were able to walk around.

Part of the Salpa Line was visible, as well as some wood lined trenches and military hardware. The Salpa Line was constructed after the Winter War (against Russia) in order to secure the new border. Terms of the truce involved Finland ceding parts of its eastern territories to Russia. Knowing that Russia would come back for more, along a line of 1200km, rows of jagged rocks were embedded in the ground, making the line impregnable against tanks and other vehicles. In the event, in 1944 Russia launched a massive offensive, avoiding the Line. However, it remains in place and is regarded as one of the strongest and best preserved lines of fortification in Europe built during the Second World War.

We went on to the Salpa Line Museum in Miehikkälä, which was open. Here were far more fortifications, trenches, underground bunkers and hardware. We also watched a short film telling the history of the Salpa Line. Altogether a fascinating day.

We finished with a longish drive to Lappeenranta, a town on Lake Saimaa, Finland's largest lake. We haven't seen anything of the town yet as our stop for the night is 2km east and we bypassed the centre. Huhtiniemi Tourist Resort is a large site comprising two hostels, self catering apartments, cabins and pitches for campervans/caravans and tents. Apart from two caravans nearby with no apparent occupants, we have this part of the site to ourselves.

Amanda
A proper autumn morning, but we did enjoy the view out over the Gulf of Finland. The trees have changed here so quickly, and it is beginning to look more like winter than autumn.

First aim today - to get as close as we could to the Russian border. We took a loop road from the site, and at one point were just 100 metres away. The woods by the roadside had 'entry forbidden' signs on them. Back on the main road we decided not to get too close to the border control, and turned left rather than right. We couldn't resist a stop at a group of roadside buildings, two of them selling "fish and caviare" and the third a sort of Cash and Carry, presumably aimed at Russians coming over the border. It was an Aladdin's Cave, packed with all sorts of stuff in large quantities. First thing we saw was a huge pile of car tyres! There were vast amounts of tea and coffee and soap products, and just about everything you might want, including just the right size cool bag that I had been after.

Then on to our planned stops, The Bunker Museum (closed but we had a mooch around the outdoor part) and the Salpa Line Museum, in Miehikkälä. Here was another opportunity for me to fill a big gap in my knowledge of history, this time more modern. The Salpa Line was a massive defensive front line constructed along the border during the Winter War and the Continuation War, 1941 to 1944. A helpful short film, in English, was shown for us first. There are trenches, dugouts, bunkers and great stone barriers designed to keep tanks out, all there to be explored. Although it was never put to the test, it is reckoned that the reason was that it was known to be impregnable; so it served its purpose.

Tea and cake in the very nice little cafe was welcome after the time out in the cold. Then we set off in a vaguely northerly direction to our overnight destination, Lappeenranta, the capital of Southern Karelia, and an all year resort. The campsite is large, and part of a complex which includes hostels and self catering units. There are very few people on the campsite itself. We are settled amongst trees, and the lakeside (Lake Saimaa, the largest lake in Finland) is not far away.

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