A lazy day. Pottered around the site this morning; explored a couple of paths that led towards the surrounding woodland but they didn't really lead anywhere.
We drove early afternoon to see something of Eckerö and also to find a food shop. First, we went a couple of miles along the dirt road by the site to Degersand, giving its name to a caravan site amongst trees and an adjacent beach in a wide cove, rock and tree lined on either side, absolutely picture perfect.
Pocket Earth showed a food shop in Storby, near the ferry terminal, but there isn't one. We collected some helpful literature about Eckerö from the ferry office and were told that the nearest (and only) shop was at Hammarland, on the next island. It was only about seven miles so off we went, although first we went to take a look at the Eckerö Mail and Customs House, an imposing building built in 1828 at a time when Finland and Åland were part of Russia. It functioned then as the Russian border station to Finland, although it has had other uses since then, a quarantine hospital during a cholera outbreak in the 1830s, connection with the Russian Revolution, German troops landing in 1918 and Finnish troops quartered there in WWII. It is now used as a culture house with exhibitions, crafts and cafe. Everything was end of season closed for us, of course.
We then drove to the decent supermarket at Frebbenby, just before Hammarland. A new currency, the euro, now we are in Finland. I was in charge of getting a litre of milk and found later, when making tea, that it was soured milk, like a rather runny yoghurt. Quite nice but not for making tea with!
On the way back, we stopped off to have a look at Eckerö church, very old, having been built in the 1400s, but like so many churches over here, they really don't look as old as they are. The stonework had been repointed and the roof tiles (wooden, maybe) looked quite new.
Amanda
A chilly night, although snug enough in the
camper, but we woke to glorious sunshine. In fact, sitting outside, I
thought I might need sunscreen for the first time! After spending the
morning just soaking up the beauty and peacefulness of the place, we
ventured out in the camper to do some gentle exploring. First
southwards on along the rough road to Degersand. The lovely beach was
deserted, and here there is a campsite which runs right up to the
beach. All the beachside pitches were empty. We keep having our
breath taken away by the views, all brilliant blue water and green
wooded shores. It is impossible to describe the quality of the light.
Being here out of season has its disadvantages, but the stillness and
emptiness makes up for them. It would all be quite different in
season, but still lovely I'm sure. We then went in search of a
supermarket and bank/hole-in-the-wall. After several red herrings we
went back to the ferry terminal to see if they could help. The
nearest is 10 miles away - fourteen or so from the campsite! The lady
there was very helpful, and searched high and low, eventually finding
us a lovely little booklet about Eckerö in English. We went to have a
look at the huge, cream coloured and impressive Old Mail and Customs
house - the outside only of course! During the season it houses
exhibitions, a cafe and craft stalls. It was built in 1828, as the
Russian border station with Sweden and, as I read somewhere, would
not look out of place in St Petersburg. It is very strange to see
such a building here, but it was built not only for administrative
purposes, but to show off Russian wealth and power of the time. The
building has remained intact through all the wars and other crises
since. Having located the supermarket, and failed by two minutes to
get to the bank before it closed (no matter, there's always
tomorrow), we drove back to the campsite enjoying the country lanes,
farmland, and tiny hamlets of scattered houses, and stopping off at
Eckerö church. Much of the church is over 700 years old, although you
wouldn't think so. It is stone, with a wooden roof, very different
from the white-painted Swedish churches, but as in Sweden, everything
is so well looked after that age doesn't show. We had to satisfy
ourselves with a walk round the graveyard, and peering through the
windows for glimpses of the interior. Geoff has just discovered that
he picked up some sort of yoghurt drink instead of milk this
afternoon. Tricky when everything is in yet another new language.
Good job we have powdered milk with us for emergencies.
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