Sandvik Gästhamn & Camping, Kökar - Tuesday, 13 September

Geoff
A very quiet night in the car park. We were up and about in good time for the thirty second drive down to the ferry. The queuing is organised in lanes according to which island is your destination and whether you have booked or not. I'd say that the ferry only takes around fifteen vehicles so booking is probably essential. A ferry employee had a list and motioned each vehicle on board in the correct order. We left promptly at 9.15.

Leaving the camper, we went up to the indoor passenger area. There is seating for around a hundred comprising PVC benches around the outside with tables and six round tables with chairs in the middle area. A cafeteria provided coffee and snacks and a couple of passengers ordered a hot meal of some kind. It was simple but very satisfactory.

The weather was, yet again, just perfect - a clear blue sky and the water as calm as a mill pond. We made our way through myriad islands, islets and skerries, most of the time travelling straight ahead but, now and then, appearing to make a sharp right turn. Our first stop was the quayside of the island of Sottunga where probably more than half of the vehicles drove off. The next scheduled stop was Husö but presumably, as no-one had booked to go to or from there, it didn't stop. The same went for the next small island whose name I don't recall. Consequently, our next and final stop was Kökar (www.kokar.ax) where everyone who was left disembarked.

We made our way the mile or two to our campsite (described in Lonely Planet as "fabulous"), situated a quarter mile down a dirt track. It is in a smooth rocky cove. There are a number of wooden holiday cabins, tent areas and a few grassy spaces for camper vans. The facilities are very good - a cafe (closed), a large and well equipped self catering kitchen/dining room overlooking the cove, showers, laundry, saunas and many brightly coloured bikes for hire (and excellent wifi). We located the reception (a wooden shed marked "Information") but it was locked. In fact, we realised that the whole site was deserted and we were here on our own. A phone call enabled us to report our arrival and details of codes for facilities. The person we spoke to was in Turku, some eighty miles and a couple of ferries away and he said he'd probably around tomorrow but, if not, to leave money in a letterbox at reception.

We went off to explore. First, we drove a mile to Sankta Anne Kyrka (church), only open until August. It is quite old and was built on top of a medieval Franciscan monastery. The remains of the monks’ chapel have been enclosed by wooden walls with a conical roof and inside is a display showing its history and artefacts found here. Unfortunately, it was all in Swedish. Some ruined monastery walls were outside but there was not much to be seen. However, the far reaching views out to sea and the archipelago were memorable. The colour was amazing.

From here, we went back to the road and took a dirt track which ended at a coastguard station after about half a mile. What I was looking for were the ruins of wartime fortifications. In 1915/16, the Russians built a radio and surveillance post and coastal battery. It was never finished and was demolished in 1919. Then in 1939/40, it was fortified by Finnish troops with naval guns. It was never used in anger and in 1940 at the end of what is called here The Winter War, Russia demanded that Åland be demilitarised and the fortifications were again demolished. Then, early in what is called The Continuation War (1941-1944), Kökar was fortified for a third time. The same coastal guns were brought back and a strong permanent fort was built. There was accommodation for 120 men and a field hospital. A term of the cease-fire between Finland and Russia in 1944 was that Åland should be demilitarised again and so the fort was yet again demolished, this time for good. There is now very little left to be seen but the history makes it worth a visit together with the sea views.

Back then to the still deserted campsite. A couple of vehicles came down to the simple harbour and a small power boat came in for a while but we have otherwise been left in peace. Amanda braved a dip in the calm waters but I wasn't tempted (nothing new there).

Tomorrow, we shall visit the village of Karlby where most of Kökar's 251 inhabitants live.

Amanda

It wasn't a completely peaceful night, but we had expected it. The night crossings each way between Turku and Stockholm make a brief stop here, and so there was quite a bit of coming and going.

We were all ready to go in good time for our ferry. A lovely, small old-fashioned vehicle ferry, the single car deck open to the elements at one end, with room for no more than about 15 cars. Next deck up was a cafe/lounge, and a small open deck, with another small open deck above that. We settled ourselves in the "salong" for the two and a half hour trip. Comfortable seating for about a hundred - number of passengers 12! We had coffee and cake. Refills of coffee were free. The wifi was very fast! The weather was glorious, and the sky and sea brilliant blue, cloudless and totally calm respectively. There was only one stop, where a couple of vehicles left, and one came on. Very civilised! How did I ever contemplate going any other way? The experience was a complete joy!

On arrival at the island of Kökar (pronounced Shercar) we made straight for the only campsite. The island felt like stepping back in time. It is the southernmost Kommune of Åland, and quite isolated, with only 250 inhabitants.

The campsite was deserted. Not a soul around, and no sign of any caravans, campervans or tents, although the number of bikes available to hire/borrow suggested that in high summer it is extremely popular. A lovely setting again, very rocky, and with a little jetty and swimming platform and boats dotted around. The large kitchen/eating area was open, as were the loos. Showers and launderette had

keypads for entry.

We located a phone number, which I rang, and got the owner - who was in Turku today! No problem. He gave me the codes for the doors, said electrics were all working, just choose a spot and put the money through the door at reception. Could we use the laundrette, I asked? Yes, fine, just add 4 Euros to the charge.

We put a load in the washing machine - first opportunity since we have been away, everything has had to be hand washed - and then set off for a bit of island exploring. The church and its adjoining monastery were lovely. The church was closed, but a little wooden Franciscan chapel had been built incorporating some of the monastery ruins and was quite beautiful.

On our return to the campsite, I was determined to manage a swim, and was so glad I did. The weather was perfect for it.

We have cooked and eaten in the kitchen, and are still here watching the sunset. You would pay a lot for this view in a restaurant!

Last night, a car park. Tomorrow night, no idea, but likely to be a layby as the ferry doesn't get in to Galtby until 9 pm. But tonight, a whole beautiful campsite completely to ourselves!!!