Monday 12 September 2016

Gröna Uddens Camping, Mariehamn - Sunday, 11 September

Geoff
A walk before breakfast for a mile or so alongside the water's edge from the campsite in the opposite direction from the town. There were some holiday cabins on the land side of the path, then larger houses and then plain residential, all completely different from what we'd see at home. I went as far as a spit of land jutting out into the water, along which was a path. At the end, by the water was a single wooden loo hut, a single changing cubicle, a couple of benches and a little beach. I then retraced my steps back to base.

We had not such a full day today. Around lunchtime, we drove to the Sjöfartsmuseum. There were so few people around and almost no traffic so we were able to park immediately outside the museum. The museum itself is very modern and on three floors. It tells the history of Åland's seafaring, how they built small boats to take wood, firewood and other goods they produced to Stockholm in one direction and Turku (Finland) in the other. In time, and in order to compete, they bought larger boats and ships built elsewhere and were able to go further afield, taking not only their own cargoes but also carrying cargoes from other ports and taking them all over the world. There were many interesting exhibits, including reconstructed living accommodations of both captain and crew.

Outside the museum, and moored alongside, was a clipper called the Pommern, last used commercially in the late 1930s but in its present position since 1952. We went on board, first of all to the lower two decks that would have been used for stowing the cargo. They were cavernous. Then upstairs to the accommodation. The captain had his own saloon, small cabin and separate bathroom (actually with a bath). The cabins, etc. for the first and second mates and the crew were much more basic, but no less interesting.

We had the Pommern to ourselves and there were only a couple of other people in the museum.

On the way back to the campsite, we indulged ourselves with a return visit to Pub Niska for another of their pizzas, although Amanda went for a baked potato.

Tomorrow, we head for the interesting named island of Lumparland to sort out our onward travel to the mainland of Finland. We have decided to go island hopping rather than a single voyage.

An evening walk took me up and into the woodland across the road from the campsite. It was an elevated clear path and quite delightful. Eventually emerging from the trees, I walked through a few roads of housing until I reached the path alongside the water and followed my this morning's walk back to the camper.

Amanda
A bit of a wakeful night last night, but the plus side, having left the blind by the bed open, was seeing first the bright starlit night sky, then a beautiful sunrise at about 5.30 and finally the water shimmering in the sun around 8. By 10 a mist had rolled in and the far side of the bay was hidden from sight.

Geoff had gone off for a morning walk, returning in time to enjoy a Sunday breakfast treat of toast and marmalade. The toast is dry fried in a frying pan, which works really well, saving gas. Have I mentioned that trick before?

The weather having changed to overcast and a bit chilly, it was a good day for a museum visit. A few hours spent at the Ålands Sjöfartsmuseum (maritime), Finland's Museum of the Year fitted the bill perfectly. Full of wide-ranging exhibits, from model sailing ships to a Captain's Cabin, details of all the old shipping routes, and the history of sailing ships on Åland, all well laid out over three floors in a modern waterside building; we really enjoyed it. The best part, saved till last and included in the entrance fee, was the vv Pommern, a four masted Barque, which has been moored there since 1952. She is said to be the only large tall ship in the world which remains unaltered from her days in active service in the late 1930s. We had the whole enormous ship completely to ourselves, with freedom to roam all over three decks, from the hold to the fully furnished Captain's quarters and everything in between.

By closing time, at 4 pm, we were ready to eat, having had nothing since our late breakfast, so decided to return to Pub Nisko. This time I had a jacket potato piled high with prawns! Restaurants generally may be quite pricey here, but at 10 Euros I doubt I could have produced it myself for less.

We are one of only two campervans left on site this evening, although there may be a few folk in the little wooden stuga, or cabins, further up the site. The weather has cleared and it is now a pleasant evening, though a bit chilly.

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