Galtby, Korpo island - Wednesday, 14 September

Geoff
The site owner or manager turned up this morning around breakfast time and we duly paid for our stay. It was amazing having the site and its facilities to ourselves.

We took off to explore more of the island. Our first stop was at Karlby, the main village. There is a cafe/bakery but it was closed. A hotel (closed). A bank that appeared to be open but I'd say that it probably opens for just a few hours a week. Our map showed a shop and we found it down a dirt track by a small marina. It was small but with quite a decent range of comestibles. We bought a few necessary items to help the local economy.

Our drive then took us first of all to the tiny island of Finnö but we didn't get very far. Once we'd crossed the bridge, there was a little cafe (closed, of course) and then two dirt tracks, both marked as private, so we turned round.

On then to the adjacent islands of Sommarön and Hellsö. It was all farming country and deserted roads, often just dirt tracks and houses scattered about. We just followed these roads to see where they would lead us - generally a dead end. We stopped at the Kökar museum (closed) but wandered around its surroundings and down to an inlet which was very pleasant.

One of these dirt roads was signed "Peders Aplagård" which sounded possibly interesting; something to do with apples? The road ended in a farmyard and an open barn-like building with tables and umbrellas. Going in to the barn to investigate, we found a farm shop, the speciality being apple based products, non-alcoholic apple drinks, ciders, jam, spicy sauces. The lady owner told us that they grow their own apples which are sent over to Sweden to be processed into what we had seen. They are sold at the shop and in many other outlets. We parted with some cash.

We then looked for a lunch stop. Out of Karlby, we followed a dirt road which, after a few houses, was nothing more than a cart track and not really meant for camper vans. We pulled over and had a leisurely lunch overlooking a lake called Oppsjön. According to a legend, it was once the home of a troll whose mission was to discourage locals catching fish there.

We moved on to near where we spent last night where there is the finest Bronze Age site in Scandinavia, Otterböte. It is a 600m walk over expanses of smooth rock and woodland paths to a verdant clearing where there are about six stone circles. The site was where men of old came to catch seals. To be honest, these are best views from above, I think, as I couldn't make out much at ground level. Anyway, it was a nice walk.

We then headed off with plenty of time to the ferry, only five minutes away. We thought that we might as well spend the time there as anywhere else. It being yet another fine day, the views over the water to the various islets were splendid. We chatted to or rather, communicated with, a Russian couple in the car stopped behind us. They were from St. Petersburg but spoke virtually no English. We took the opportunity to have our evening meal here as we leave the ferry at Galtby around 9.15pm and our main concern then will be to find somewhere discreet to park for the night.

The ferry arrived and all cars and passengers left so we entered a totally empty ferry with just two other vehicles. There are two young girls as the on board staff and just us and the Russian couple in the saloon. The occupant of the other car appears to have stayed in it for the two and a half hour crossing. The ferry went into port backwards so we had to reverse off, which was interesting.

I'd had a couple of ideas for overnight parking but it was too dark to see so we joined the road in the Turku direction. Sections of the road we being resurfaced and there was more traffic than I'd have liked. We'd have settled for a lay-by but then there was a left turn to Wattkast so I took it. Just by the start of a long bridge (over to Wattkast island) there was a murky area off to the left. Investigating with the aid of headlights, we found an old road descending gently to a metal barrier, the other side of which was a river. It would appear that we are at what would have been the ferry crossing before the bridge was built. We could just about make out a similar one on the other side. It should be a quiet night.

Amanda

Geoff later explored the outside of the Kökar Museum (closed) and we stopped at the beginning of the path to the site of a Bronze Age dwelling. I'm afraid I let Geoff go on alone after scrambling up over the first rocky part.

At this point we had seen all that there is to see in Kökar and the little ferry port/harbour had as good views as any as a spot to cook and eat supper before catching the ferry at 6.30. The ferry, which had come from Långnäs, hove into sight, and the several cars and one large motorhome on board disembarked. The embarkation is so swiftly done that we had hardly got the handbrake on before we were on the move. There is only one ferry a day which continues for the second leg of the crossing, and I am writing this in the lounge. It is the sister ship of the one we sailed on yesterday. There are three vehicles and five passengers on board!! And absolutely no musak, I'm very pleased to say. We had chatted a bit to the other couple on board while waiting. They are Russian, from St Petersburg, and have very little English. We had seen them earlier, in Karlby, and they had also visited the Apple place just before us.

We have just been out on deck to watch the sunset, very pretty but not spectacular, and in about 30 minutes time should arrive at Galtby. Then we just have to find somewhere to park for the night!

A little later. Our arrival was done as speedily as everything else, and included reversing off the ferry, which was a bit daunting, then finding our bearings in the dark, and straight on to a very rough road (signposted Turku 75km) which seems to be in the process of being repaired. Geoff was very pleased to turn off at the first available opportunity, and then he dived off again, onto a short rough track which led down beside a very new looking bridge crossing the water onto what we now see from the map is an island. At the end was a concrete slab by the water, with a low iron bar across, presumably the jetty for a ferry before the bridge was built. It is solid, and flat, and here we shall stay for the night. The camper is in reverse gear, with the handbrake firmly on, I hope. If this gets posted, then all was well! 

Sandvik Gästhamn & Camping, Kökar - Tuesday, 13 September

Geoff
A very quiet night in the car park. We were up and about in good time for the thirty second drive down to the ferry. The queuing is organised in lanes according to which island is your destination and whether you have booked or not. I'd say that the ferry only takes around fifteen vehicles so booking is probably essential. A ferry employee had a list and motioned each vehicle on board in the correct order. We left promptly at 9.15.

Leaving the camper, we went up to the indoor passenger area. There is seating for around a hundred comprising PVC benches around the outside with tables and six round tables with chairs in the middle area. A cafeteria provided coffee and snacks and a couple of passengers ordered a hot meal of some kind. It was simple but very satisfactory.

The weather was, yet again, just perfect - a clear blue sky and the water as calm as a mill pond. We made our way through myriad islands, islets and skerries, most of the time travelling straight ahead but, now and then, appearing to make a sharp right turn. Our first stop was the quayside of the island of Sottunga where probably more than half of the vehicles drove off. The next scheduled stop was Husö but presumably, as no-one had booked to go to or from there, it didn't stop. The same went for the next small island whose name I don't recall. Consequently, our next and final stop was Kökar (www.kokar.ax) where everyone who was left disembarked.

We made our way the mile or two to our campsite (described in Lonely Planet as "fabulous"), situated a quarter mile down a dirt track. It is in a smooth rocky cove. There are a number of wooden holiday cabins, tent areas and a few grassy spaces for camper vans. The facilities are very good - a cafe (closed), a large and well equipped self catering kitchen/dining room overlooking the cove, showers, laundry, saunas and many brightly coloured bikes for hire (and excellent wifi). We located the reception (a wooden shed marked "Information") but it was locked. In fact, we realised that the whole site was deserted and we were here on our own. A phone call enabled us to report our arrival and details of codes for facilities. The person we spoke to was in Turku, some eighty miles and a couple of ferries away and he said he'd probably around tomorrow but, if not, to leave money in a letterbox at reception.

We went off to explore. First, we drove a mile to Sankta Anne Kyrka (church), only open until August. It is quite old and was built on top of a medieval Franciscan monastery. The remains of the monks’ chapel have been enclosed by wooden walls with a conical roof and inside is a display showing its history and artefacts found here. Unfortunately, it was all in Swedish. Some ruined monastery walls were outside but there was not much to be seen. However, the far reaching views out to sea and the archipelago were memorable. The colour was amazing.

From here, we went back to the road and took a dirt track which ended at a coastguard station after about half a mile. What I was looking for were the ruins of wartime fortifications. In 1915/16, the Russians built a radio and surveillance post and coastal battery. It was never finished and was demolished in 1919. Then in 1939/40, it was fortified by Finnish troops with naval guns. It was never used in anger and in 1940 at the end of what is called here The Winter War, Russia demanded that Åland be demilitarised and the fortifications were again demolished. Then, early in what is called The Continuation War (1941-1944), Kökar was fortified for a third time. The same coastal guns were brought back and a strong permanent fort was built. There was accommodation for 120 men and a field hospital. A term of the cease-fire between Finland and Russia in 1944 was that Åland should be demilitarised again and so the fort was yet again demolished, this time for good. There is now very little left to be seen but the history makes it worth a visit together with the sea views.

Back then to the still deserted campsite. A couple of vehicles came down to the simple harbour and a small power boat came in for a while but we have otherwise been left in peace. Amanda braved a dip in the calm waters but I wasn't tempted (nothing new there).

Tomorrow, we shall visit the village of Karlby where most of Kökar's 251 inhabitants live.

Amanda

It wasn't a completely peaceful night, but we had expected it. The night crossings each way between Turku and Stockholm make a brief stop here, and so there was quite a bit of coming and going.

We were all ready to go in good time for our ferry. A lovely, small old-fashioned vehicle ferry, the single car deck open to the elements at one end, with room for no more than about 15 cars. Next deck up was a cafe/lounge, and a small open deck, with another small open deck above that. We settled ourselves in the "salong" for the two and a half hour trip. Comfortable seating for about a hundred - number of passengers 12! We had coffee and cake. Refills of coffee were free. The wifi was very fast! The weather was glorious, and the sky and sea brilliant blue, cloudless and totally calm respectively. There was only one stop, where a couple of vehicles left, and one came on. Very civilised! How did I ever contemplate going any other way? The experience was a complete joy!

On arrival at the island of Kökar (pronounced Shercar) we made straight for the only campsite. The island felt like stepping back in time. It is the southernmost Kommune of Åland, and quite isolated, with only 250 inhabitants.

The campsite was deserted. Not a soul around, and no sign of any caravans, campervans or tents, although the number of bikes available to hire/borrow suggested that in high summer it is extremely popular. A lovely setting again, very rocky, and with a little jetty and swimming platform and boats dotted around. The large kitchen/eating area was open, as were the loos. Showers and launderette had

keypads for entry.

We located a phone number, which I rang, and got the owner - who was in Turku today! No problem. He gave me the codes for the doors, said electrics were all working, just choose a spot and put the money through the door at reception. Could we use the laundrette, I asked? Yes, fine, just add 4 Euros to the charge.

We put a load in the washing machine - first opportunity since we have been away, everything has had to be hand washed - and then set off for a bit of island exploring. The church and its adjoining monastery were lovely. The church was closed, but a little wooden Franciscan chapel had been built incorporating some of the monastery ruins and was quite beautiful.

On our return to the campsite, I was determined to manage a swim, and was so glad I did. The weather was perfect for it.

We have cooked and eaten in the kitchen, and are still here watching the sunset. You would pay a lot for this view in a restaurant!

Last night, a car park. Tomorrow night, no idea, but likely to be a layby as the ferry doesn't get in to Galtby until 9 pm. But tonight, a whole beautiful campsite completely to ourselves!!!

Långnäs ferry terminal, Lumparland - Monday, 12 September

Geoff
Our first task this morning was to call at the Ålandstrafiken office in Mariehamn to book our ferries through the islands of the southern archipelago. Our route will be from Långnäs to Kökar tomorrow morning, spending one night on Kökar and then, on Wednesday, taking an onward ferry to Galtby in the Turku archipelago. It works out much cheaper spending a night en route. This is because the ferries between the islands are mainly intended for locals and making the route in one leap is deliberately made more expensive to penalise visitors. There is an open campsite on Kökar. By booking ahead, we saved 10% of the cost which worked out at €93.

That done, our next port of call was at the Alko alcohol store with the idea of buying a bottle of Åland's take on Calvados. However, it proved to be prohibitively expensive, (€111!) so we gave it a miss. After a shop at the nearby Kantarellen supermarket, we went on to our next destination. When we used the kitchen at the hostel adjoining Godby sports centre, I inadvertently brought away a glass saucepan lid, thinking it was ours. It wasn't and I was anxious to return it, particularly as we had no use for it. I gave it to a lady in the sports centre reception who was quite amused.

We now set out for Långnäs, taking a  backwoods route, as usual meeting virtually no other traffic. On the way, we crossed a bridge between the islands of Lemland and Lumparland. The water we'd crossed, Lumparsund, not very wide, was apparently the main shipping route between Sweden and Russia until it silted up in the 1600s. We went on only a few miles for our lunch stop, in the car park adjacent to Sankt Andreas Kyrka, the oldest surviving wooden church in Åland, built in 1720 and still in regular use. It would have been open had we called by earlier in the year.

There was a path from the car park opening on to a grassy recreational area. Here, there were swings, picnic table, volleyball court and a jetty for swimming from. There were also a couple of earth closet loos and changing rooms. So civilised.

Långnäs consists of just a ferry terminal, although it is used by more than one line plying different routes around the archipelago. We ascertained exactly where we need to be in the morning. We then drove back to Lumparland village and took the road out to the island of Norrboda, at the end of which was a chain ferry to Ändösund, another small island, beyond which were two yet smaller islands, whose names I don't know. However, the ferry was on the other side with no vehicles to bring across. We could have summoned it by pressing a button but as we would want to come back after only maybe a quarter of an hour, it didn't seem a good use of Åland's resources to do this. We then went back to the church car park for a relaxing end of afternoon and evening, it being preferred to the terminal car park and we had time to spare. We had our evening meal there and then drove the short distance back to the ferry as light was beginning to fade. We are in a car park close to the ferry but not the one in front of the Viking Ferry building as Amanda ascertained that other ferries would be stopping briefly just before midnight and about 2am to drop people off so there might be some disturbance.

Amanda

Back to glorious sunshine and heat today! Having made the decision to go for the island hopping ferry route, we set off for Långnäs, about 30 miles away. But we had several stops to make on the way.

First was the Ålandstrafikbyro in Mariehamn to get the ferries booked. It was nowhere near as complicated as we had feared and the young man got us all sorted in no time. We are booked on the 9.15 ferry tomorrow morning. No racing across islands is involved - I think maybe that is on the alternative northern route.

Second stop was to Alko, the alcohol shop (only beer available in the supermarket) in search of the Åland equivalent of Calvados, which we had read about. We found it. At 111 Euros a bottle we thought maybe we'd settle for duty free Calvados on the Harwich ferry next month! We then topped up with essentials at the supermarket next door.

Third stop - was retracing our tracks to the Idrottcenter in Godby, to return the saucepan lid we had accidentally taken with us thinking it was ours. Oops!

Then on through Lemland to Lumparland. We stopped to look at St Andreas Church, the church for Lumparland, which is the oldest surviving wooden church in Åland, dating from the mid eighteenth century. Just by the church a track led down to a beach and jetty, with a little wooden changing hut and a beach volleyball court! We lunched here, and then went to reccy the ferry port and see where we might spend the night. There didn't seem to be any reason not to stop on the car park overnight, but because there was no shade we didn't want to spend the afternoon there. So we drove northwards through the pleasant countryside of Lumparland until we reached the end of the road. A ferry could have taken us over to the next island, but was on the other side. We didn't have the heart to press the button and call it over to fetch us when we would only need to come back again, so returned to our little church car park. Here we spent the rest of the afternoon reading, and cooked and ate supper. In a short while we will head for the Ferry Terminal Car Park for the night.

Gröna Uddens Camping, Mariehamn - Sunday, 11 September

Geoff
A walk before breakfast for a mile or so alongside the water's edge from the campsite in the opposite direction from the town. There were some holiday cabins on the land side of the path, then larger houses and then plain residential, all completely different from what we'd see at home. I went as far as a spit of land jutting out into the water, along which was a path. At the end, by the water was a single wooden loo hut, a single changing cubicle, a couple of benches and a little beach. I then retraced my steps back to base.

We had not such a full day today. Around lunchtime, we drove to the Sjöfartsmuseum. There were so few people around and almost no traffic so we were able to park immediately outside the museum. The museum itself is very modern and on three floors. It tells the history of Åland's seafaring, how they built small boats to take wood, firewood and other goods they produced to Stockholm in one direction and Turku (Finland) in the other. In time, and in order to compete, they bought larger boats and ships built elsewhere and were able to go further afield, taking not only their own cargoes but also carrying cargoes from other ports and taking them all over the world. There were many interesting exhibits, including reconstructed living accommodations of both captain and crew.

Outside the museum, and moored alongside, was a clipper called the Pommern, last used commercially in the late 1930s but in its present position since 1952. We went on board, first of all to the lower two decks that would have been used for stowing the cargo. They were cavernous. Then upstairs to the accommodation. The captain had his own saloon, small cabin and separate bathroom (actually with a bath). The cabins, etc. for the first and second mates and the crew were much more basic, but no less interesting.

We had the Pommern to ourselves and there were only a couple of other people in the museum.

On the way back to the campsite, we indulged ourselves with a return visit to Pub Niska for another of their pizzas, although Amanda went for a baked potato.

Tomorrow, we head for the interesting named island of Lumparland to sort out our onward travel to the mainland of Finland. We have decided to go island hopping rather than a single voyage.

An evening walk took me up and into the woodland across the road from the campsite. It was an elevated clear path and quite delightful. Eventually emerging from the trees, I walked through a few roads of housing until I reached the path alongside the water and followed my this morning's walk back to the camper.

Amanda

A bit of a wakeful night last night, but the plus side, having left the blind by the bed open, was seeing first the bright starlit night sky, then a beautiful sunrise at about 5.30 and finally the water shimmering in the sun around 8. By 10 a mist had rolled in and the far side of the bay was hidden from sight.

Geoff had gone off for a morning walk, returning in time to enjoy a Sunday breakfast treat of toast and marmalade. The toast is dry fried in a frying pan, which works really well, saving gas. Have I mentioned that trick before?

The weather having changed to overcast and a bit chilly, it was a good day for a museum visit. A few hours spent at the Ålands Sjöfartsmuseum (maritime), Finland's Museum of the Year fitted the bill perfectly. Full of wide-ranging exhibits, from model sailing ships to a Captain's Cabin, details of all the old shipping routes, and the history of sailing ships on Åland, all well laid out over three floors in a modern waterside building; we really enjoyed it. The best part, saved till last and included in the entrance fee, was the vv Pommern, a four masted Barque, which has been moored there since 1952. She is said to be the only large tall ship in the world which remains unaltered from her days in active service in the late 1930s. We had the whole enormous ship completely to ourselves, with freedom to roam all over three decks, from the hold to the fully furnished Captain's quarters and everything in between.

By closing time, at 4 pm, we were ready to eat, having had nothing since our late breakfast, so decided to return to Pub Nisko. This time I had a jacket potato piled high with prawns! Restaurants generally may be quite pricey here, but at 10 Euros I doubt I could have produced it myself for less.

We are one of only two campervans left on site this evening, although there may be a few folk in the little wooden stuga, or cabins, further up the site. The weather has cleared and it is now a pleasant evening, though a bit chilly.

Gröna Uddens Camping, Mariehamn - Saturday, 10 September

Geoff

Another short driving day today, it was about 13km from Godby to Mariehamn. Pocket Earth showed the tourist office in the wrong place. We passed a rather large one in Storagatan, but it was closed (we've found that tourist offices and libraries often close at weekends) and when we arrived at where the satnav thought there ŵas a tourist office, there wasn't. Anyway, we were at a large ferry terminal at that point and a helpful security lady rang the tourist office and established that, indeed, it wasn't open today. She was nonplussed as well.

We had a brief wander around along the quayside, establishing where one of Mariehamn's main attractions, the Sjöfartsmuseum is as a possibility for tomorrow. We fell into conversation with a German cyclist who was bemoaning the fact that his Visa card was causing problems and, as a result, he was having difficulty booking a ferry to Stockholm and was miffed that so much seemed to be closed at weekends. He wasn't having a good day. Anyway, we said we were wondering where we would be spending the night with the camper as the only campsite in Mariehamn was closed. He said it was open as he'd been there last night. Things were looking up.

We first went to take a look at a camperstop on Österleden by a marina that I'd found online. It turned out to be just a row of ordinary parking spaces overlooking the water, with a loo disposal but nothing more. It would do for one night maybe. We then went on to Gröna Uddens Camping, which was very open. The proprietor said that he wasn't advertising the fact that the site was open as the cafeteria/restaurant on site wasn't open and he didn't want people to be disappointed! Because of this, the charge per night would be €25 instead of €35. We said we'd be back tomorrow.

We then went to investigate Pub Niska, owned by Michael Björklund (see yesterday's entry) in the Sjökvarteret area on Österleden. This was a rough wooden building, apparently built around part of a ship, a courtyard with wooden packing cases as tables and bench seats, all very rustic and looking out across the inlet. A masted schooner was only feet away. Most of the menu comprised plåtbröd (Åland-style pizza) with some very appetising toppings. We both had smoked trout, horseradish sauce and rocket and it was possible the best pizza ever.

We wandered around among the other buildings. A large craft shop (which had closed while we were having lunch), a jeweller's, a maritime museum and a reconstructed seafarer's chapel which we visited, right on the end of a jetty.

Back to the campsite where we found an excellent pitch only feet away from the beach. There are very few people here. I was persuaded to book us in for two nights here, it is such a lovely place. I took a walk into the town this afternoon, an easy walk along a gravel path. In a park area are some large cages housing rabbits of various kinds and poultry (although a considerable number of jackdaws had found their way in); there were also some peacocks strutting around.

The part of Mariehamn I saw is modern and pleasant enough but nothing of great interest. Our German friend from this morning has returned to the site for another night, having now booked his ferry. He is much happier now.

Amanda

Well, what Geoff would call serendipity, coupled with a willingness to go with the flow and not be in a rush, has been on our side again today, and we are nicely settled for the next couple of nights.

But to begin at the beginning. We drove south to Mariehamn, the capital of Åland, this morning with no idea of where we might be able to spend the night. Fabulous weather again, so of course everything looks great, but it is a very attractive town. Wide tree lined streets and low wooden buildings painted in pastel colours. 40% of the population of Åland lives here, but it is still really only a medium sized town. The satnav told us that the Tourist Information Office was at the ferry terminal. On the way we passed what looked very much like it, but it was clearly closed, so we pressed on to the terminal. This is pretty big, as is the terminal building, and caters for three different ferry companies heading out in several directions. However, with no ferries scheduled for another two hours, the place, although open, was almost deserted. And, as expected, no TIO. A sole lady security guard kindly phoned the TIO and confirmed that they were indeed closed.

We walked along the esplanade and back, and then sat outside the terminal to do some more internet research. Along came a German cyclist. He was very grumpy indeed. Everything, it seemed was going wrong. Everything was closed. He couldn't believe this place was so uncivilised. He had had enough. While Geoff continued to beaver away on the internet, and kept his head down, I listened sympathetically and made polite conversation. Patience was rewarded when we said that even the campsite here in Mariehamn was closed, and he said it wasn't because he had stayed there last night!

We drove to the site, where we found the owner in reception. The reason the website says it is closed, he told us, is because he doesn't want people to come and be disappointed because the cafe and some other facilities are not available! It is a lovely site, and there are a handful of motorhomes scattered amongst the trees. We are situated right on the edge of the sandy beach, with an uninterrupted view across the bay.

We lunched back in town, sitting outside at the harbourside Pub Nisko, the brainchild of the same chef who set up Smakbyn, which we visited yesterday. The place is extraordinary, with tables and benches made from old packing cases, and the whole resembling an old ship. The smoked trout and horseradish cream flatbread (Åland's answer to pizza) was out of this world. Nearby, at the end of a little causeway, was a tiny Fisherman's Chapel, lovely inside and out.

Back at the site, and booked for two nights, we sat outside enjoying the view and reading for the rest of the afternoon. Geoff went off for a walk, and our grumpy German cyclist from this morning came by and hailed me. Christofer was now no longer grumpy. He had sorted out his ferry for tomorrow morning and lunched at Pub Nisko himself. He was still sitting here chatting half an hour later when Geoff returned.

So we have the prospect of a relaxed Sunday here, with a pleasant stroll into town along the wooded waterside path on offer.

We are still pondering the choice of ferry to Turku. At least I am.

Option 1 is the direct ferry, Mariehamn to Turku, on a full size ferry, Viking or Silja Lines. It takes about 5 hours, I think. It winds its way through the islands, and a cabin for snoozing in would be a possibility.

Option 2 is the more adventurous one, island hopping by small ferry across first the Åland Archipelago, and then the Turku Archipelago. Trying to find out about this route has been rather like doing a jigsaw puzzle. Starting in Långnäs on the wonderfully named island of Lumparland, it would be spread over three days, with about 3 hours each day taken up with ferries. One night would have to be spent on one of the intermediate Åland Islands as a condition of using the ferry route, because it is primarily meant for the use of the islanders. A second night would be spent on Galtby, on the furthest of the Åland Islands, because the ferry doesn't arrive there until 9 pm. The route from there to Turku, by ferries and bridges, is still a bit of an unknown quantity.

On his website, Paul gives some insight into this route. He describes racing across islands to catch the

next ferry, in a little convoy of vehicles on the same mission, trying not to break the speed limit in the process. Our German cyclist yesterday confirmed this, saying that the timetables were such that you couldn't do the route on a bike, because there was not sufficient time to get from one ferry to the next.

There is little difference in the cost, as far as we can tell. If anything option 2 is a bit more expensive.

Those we have spoken to say that island hopping is a lovely way to do the crossing. I must say that it sounds potentially stressful to me, and we have forgotten how to do stressful! We have at least another day to make a decision.

Ålands Idrottscenter, Godby - Friday, 9 September

Geoff
Quite a full day today. First on our agenda was to visit Jankarlsgården. This is an open air museum of typical rural buildings of Åland. It was established in 1931 and is named after a local farmer, Jan Karls, whose farmhouse is the main exhibit. There is also a summer cottage and numerous barns, stables, four windmills of different kinds and even a smoke sauna, used as an ordinary sauna but also for smoking meats, all of which have been brought from their original locations in the islands and reconstructed. Admission to the museum was free but would have been worth paying for.

Within the museum site, there is also a small prison building called Vita Björn (white bear). It is stone built and was actually in use in its present location from the 1800s until 1975. One half of it comprises four prison cells, each representing particular periods, showing how a prisoner would have lived at various times. The other half of the building would have been occupied by the warder and his family and was in 1930s style.

Leaving here, we went to investigate some buildings over the road with a cafe/restaurant sign (crossed knife and fork) and the name Smakbyn. There were tables and chairs outside but nothing else to indicate what it was. On going inside, we found a shop display of crafts and wines for sale. It also appeared to be a restaurant with some lovely aromas of cooking. We ordered coffee and one each of a local speciality we had read about, Åland pancakes (Ålandspannkaka). This is a rice puddingy base with cardamom-marinated prunes, topped with whipped cream. Further south, the base is made with semolina so we shall have to track that down. One word for it - yum! It was only this evening that I read Lonely Planet about the place -
"The brainchild of award-winning chef Michael 'Micke' Björklund, this 'taste village' incorporates a farm shop, cookery courses (with/without drinks €90/120), distillery making spirits like Ålvados (Åland-apple calvados; tours and tastings available), bar, and an airy open-kitchen restaurant using seasonal organic produce in dishes like parsnip cheesecake with air-dried ham and pickled chanterelles, and butter-fried perch in shellfish sauce with crayfish compote."
Tempting to go back there! However, he also has a place in Mariehamn which we shall have to find.

Just a short distance down the road was Kastelholms slott, a castle dating back to the 1300s and originally built as a fortified stronghold. It was added to over the years. The Swedish 16th century king, Gustav Vasa, who we have come across a number of times during this trip, spent time here and one of his sons was imprisoned here. We followed a numbered trail around the castle building with boards at various points giving information and history, going up and down stairs and along raised walkways. It was really well done. I was persuaded to try on a rather heavy suit of chain mail and a helmet.

After this, we drove to Godby, vaguely looking for somewhere to spend the night. Godby is a nothing sort of place. We called in at the sports centre, where we knew they had hostel accommodation. Amanda worked well on this and we have ended up being able to park in their car park right next to the hostel, for which we have a key and access to their kitchen, loos and shower. It is all very good and we were charged €15. There is also wifi. We keep landing on our feet but I have warned that there may come a day when we spend a night parked in a lay-by somewhere.

We called in at a large supermarket just down the road. I was aware that Godby has a micro brewery, Stallhagen, and the supermarket stocked its beers. We bought a couple of bottles. We then actually drove to the brewery. There was a restaurant and bar but it was easier to have bought the beers where we did.

Amanda thought she had picked up a few ticks on her feet. I don't know what they were but they weren't ticks. I then found what definitely a tick just below my left kneecap. Fortunately, I had brought a tick remover with me. A nasty little blood sucking beast.

We have spent the evening in the hostel kitchen cooking, eating and taking showers as well as FaceTiming children and grandchildren. We chatted to a Swedish man who was over here to buy a sizeable quantity of a particular kind of paint which he will resell in Sweden. He told us of his hobby of collecting 1970s push button telephones. He has twenty five in different colours. He also told of the summer house that he and his parents/grandparents have rented since 1920 on a lake about two hours from Stockholm which sounded idyllic. He gave us each a plum from his garden.

We are going to the islands' main town of Mariehamn tomorrow to make enquiries about ferries to the mainland. There is lots to see and do there. The campsite there is now closed for the season so we haven't any idea yet where we shall be tomorrow night - it may be a lay-by!

Amanda

Every day has been special, but today has been particularly full and enjoyable. We started with the open air museum of fascinating 19th century buildings this morning, a real insight into the life of the Åland farming communities of the time. The buildings had been brought to the site from various different islands. Also on the site, having been there and in use for centuries, was the old prison building. The three cells had each been furnished differently to show how they would have been from 1800 to 1975 when it was last used as a jail. With several exhibits of chains, and other daunting stuff, and the jail master's family quarters furnished as they would have been at around the turn of the century, it was very interesting, and made more so by having a personal guide in our young lady from last night, who was on duty there today. We had the whole place to ourselves for nearly all the time we were there. In fact we only saw two other groups of people there and in the castle later, one with a Russian numberplate.

We had thought to have coffee in the museum cafe, but it wasn't open. However, as we went down the hill to the castle we realised that the large smart building we passed was possibly a restaurant, and seemed to be open, so we went to investigate. It was in fact an extremely smart restaurant and conference centre, Smakbyn, with a gift shop full of lovely things! So here we enjoyed coffee and our first taste of Åland pancakes. Scrummy.

Next stop, the castle. Too much to describe everything here, but again full of interest and historical information  and restored lovingly. Loads of stairways to go up and down to walk off the pancakes! With encouragement from the young man on duty, I persuaded Geoff to try on the chain mail and helmet in the dressing up corner, and have the photo to prove it!

We wanted to go to Godby, which is right in the middle of Åland, to investigate a micro-brewery. But first we needed to establish a place to stay for the night. Over our leisurely coffee break we had spent some time on the internet researching various options for travelling to Turku, on the Finnish mainland, and had also established that nearly all the campsites are now closed!  In Godby we found the  Åland Idrottcenter, which is a sports centre, swimming pool, Tourist Information Centre and large modern Youth Hostel. Once again, we explained that we were looking for somewhere to stop for the night. The man on duty said we could stay in their car park (the fact that we are only little seems to help) We negotiated a stay in their car park, with use of the Youth Hostel facilities for 15 euros. Kitchen/lounge, with a freezer to freeze ice packs, loos, showers and wifi! We feel very fortunate, but are fully aware that we are not always going to fall on our feet!

Godby is not actually a town - it seems Mariehamn, our next stop, is the only proper town on Åland - but seems to consist of just some houses, this Centre, and what resembles a small out of town shopping precinct. At the supermarket there we found two more treats, Geoff bought some beer from the microbrewery, to make sure we got some, and I found two slices of Princess Tort just waiting to be tried. Two very wicked treats in one day.

A quick trip to the brewery established that its main attraction was a bistro, which looked great but was not for us today. So back to our spot in the Idrottcenter car park for tea and Princess Tort.  It was delicious, very light and fluffy, and mostly cream. I won't feel the need to have it again though.

My feet have been suffering from itchy insect bites for the last two days - walking through grass in sandals was not a good idea - and this afternoon I was convinced I had picked up ticks. Geoff investigated but assured me that the little black spots he removed from the tops of my feet were not ticks. Ironically, he later discovered a real, actual tick embedded just below his knee!! It has now been removed using his nifty Tick Removing Gadget.

We have spent the evening in the Youth Hostel, where we have seen only three people, one of them a member of staff. Having cooked and eaten supper, enjoyed one of the bottles of beer, showered, caught up with the children and all the grandchildren on FaceTime, and now finished the blog ready to post in the morning, it is time for bed. Has all that really happened in one day?

Near Kastelholms slott, Sund - Thursday, 8 September

Geoff
Looking at the map, I was curious about the two islands (East and West Simskäla) immediately north of where we were. They seemed impossibly remote. Turning out of our campsite, we turned right and followed the only road. In fact, I realised that our site hadn't been on the island of Vårdö, it was on Sandö. I said yesterday that the islands merge into each other sometimes and that was the case here. After a short drive along the forest lined road, we went on to a causeway with a single track over a bridge, with traffic lights. The road was a pinkish colour in the sunshine, being made of the local red granite. Either side of the bridge was water as far as the eye could see, with trees surrounding it and the odd wooden house of boat shed. Traffic was so light as to be almost non-existent.

At the tip of Sandö, the road continued along a causeway for maybe half a mile before abruptly coming to an end at a ferry point. We could see the ferry in the distance, stopped at the far side. It is a chain ferry that takes traffic 1.5km to East Simskäla. Further on, a bridge leads to West Simskäla (and you can't go any further from there). There was a sign which we didn't really understand which we thought gave the times the ferry operated and we didn't want to wait so we turned round and headed back the way we'd come. In retrospect, I think that if we'd waited a bit longer, the ferry would have come our way. Anyway, we drove slowly, soaking up the beauty and remoteness of the expanse of water all around.

We retraced our steps of yesterday, crossing the bridge by the Bomarsund Museum, pulling off into the car park on the other side. We wanted to explore what was left of Bomarsund Fortress. It was built by Tsarist Russia in the early 1800s because, at the time, Finland and the Åland Islands were part of the Russian Empire and Russia wanted to protect its possession against what they thought might be an attack by Sweden. This never actually happened. What did happen, in 1854, was an assault by a joint British-French force, which overran the fortress very quickly as, at the time, it was only quarter built. Altogether, something of a shambles on Russia's part. On the island of Prästö, the other side of the river from the fortress, is a walk of about 5km, taking in points of interest relating to the fortress. I'd have liked to have walked it but there wasn't enough time. We just looked around at the fragments of wall that remain, seeing also an engraved stone commemorating the 1854 assault erected on the occasion of a visit by HRH The Earl of Wessex in 2015. Apparently, the first Victoria Crosses were awarded to some of the fighting force.

Both the Puttes and Prästö campsites nearby were closed for the season, unfortunately. We might have stayed in the Bomarsund car park as there were a couple of festival loos there but it was too early. As we passed by the hamlet of Vartaga, I caught sight of a shop, a K-Market, so we took the next turn to get to it. Amazing to find a decently stocked little supermarket in such a location. All we really needed was bread. Just opposite the shop was a sign pointing to "Bokboden". I guessed what it was but it was a little gem. It was a small shed painted pale blue. On opening the door, we were bathed in light from the windows at the back. Inside were two chairs with a little table between them and at the side were some shelves of books. This was a little community library.

We then went on to find Jankarlsgården, a free open air museum of mainly farm buildings, and the nearby Kastelholms slott (castle). We had a quick look but decided to leave these until tomorrow. We are tucked away in a secluded spot for the night so we shall be the first visitors in the morning. There is free wifi at the castle entrance, a short walk away.

Amanda

Today we decided to see how much further we could get in the same direction. Although the site was great we were not sorry to leave all the insect life behind. We are both sporting some large, hard bumps! Some more lovely bridges led us over a couple of islands northwards, and then there was a long causeway heading in the direction of the furthest island, Enklinge. This must have been constructed recently, because the satnav thought we were on a ferry! The causeway stopped in the middle of the water, with a barrier across it, and we could see a ferry on the far side. Our guess is that eventually the causeway will go right across. There was no sign of the ferry moving, and no other vehicle in sight. An incomprehensible sign made us think that maybe we would have a long wait, and we would only have to come back again, so we turned round and retraced  our steps. It was no hardship, enjoying the views in reverse in the beautiful weather. In fact a later googled translation proved that the sign merely gave notice of some minor disruptions to the service.

After a few miles, and in the middle of nowhere, we saw a sign to a shop off the main road, and drove through a grassy lane to find a full blown and very well stocked supermarket. By the car park was a little blue hut with a sign "bokboden". A peek inside revealed shelves of second hand books, and a table and chairs, all very cosy!

We stopped for lunch across the bridge from yesterday's lunch stop, on the island of Sund, in the car park for Bomarsund Fortress. It is referred to as ruins, but in fact the fortress, conceived and built by the Russians at the beginning of the 19th century, was never completed.  The remains cover a large area, and we wandered around happily for some time. The history is very interesting and includes a successful joint British/French raid in 1854.

The campsite by the fortress closed for the season yesterday, and a quick nip back over the bridge confirmed that the Prästö site was also closed. So we went on a few more miles, still on Sund, to check out the opening times tomorrow for an open air museum and castle which we want to visit. The museum hadn't yet closed for the day, although there was no one around except the young lady manning the reception building. She was extremely helpful, and saw no reason why we couldn't stay here overnight! So, manned with guidebooks to read in readiness for tomorrow, we are tucked away in a shady corner of the car park with access to loos, and the option to wander around the museum this evening  viewing the buildings from the outside if we wish, We are even told that there is wifi 200 metres away at the entrance to the castle, although we have yet to check it out.